An American in Belarus: English Language Fellow Progam 2007-2008

A Different Tune

2008-04-03T22:26:00.006+03:00

At 8:00 am sharp, my phone rang. It was someone from the U.S. Embassy in Minsk. It seems as though our "conference call" with the State Department had worked some magic during the night! This time they had changed their tune, they "could" send a car for me and my luggage, but the downside was I had to be ready to go at 4:00 pm the next day! At this point I was in no position to complain, so I accepted the offer.

Now the real fun began.

I had broken the bad news to my beloved supervisor, Ludmila, the night before. So she knew there was no way I could teach my classes. But in their place came a wave of paperwork from the university. Cbeta helped me as I limped from office to office filling out forms, explaining why I was “resigning my position,” checking to see if all my library books were turned in, and a bunch of other administrative stuff. Throughout all of this, I felt really self-conscious. After all the trouble everyone had gone through back in September to officially “hire me,” this was how I had to say good-bye? I wondered what everyone was thinking, did they believe me? What did they really think about the current situation that was brewing between our two nations?

A few of my fellow English teachers shared some tears, or a hug, but for the most part there was not much to say. What was done, was done, and there was nothing any of us could do to change things. Fortunately, there wasn’t much time for sadness. The clock was ticking . . . it was almost lunch time . . . and I hadn’t packed a thing!

Out of the Office

2008-04-02T05:49:00.011+03:00

As soon as I got home, I started sending emails, making phone calls, and Skyping my family back home. The English Language Fellow Program was supposed to make my flight arrangements, but they were all in New York for the national TESOL conference. I tried my Regional English Language Officer (RELO), but she was also out of the office/country!

To top things off, the long walk had really agitated my ankle, which was swelling more and more by the minute. Luckily, I had a bag of frozen peas and used it for a make-shift ice pack.

Around 10:00pm, I Skyped my father back in Texas. It was then that I pulled out my Fellowship Manual and saw the contact information for someone at the U.S. Department of State. He called the number, and we had a mock conference call. The man we spoke to knew exactly who and where I was, and he promised to help.

At least the day ended on a positive note.

The Night from Hell

2008-04-02T05:10:00.035+03:00

Somehow I managed to carry on with my life. I even met my friend Cbeta for our 7:30pm dance class. As we left the gym I noticed that I had 12 missed calls, most of which were from Peter Young in Minsk. I immediately called him back... but soon wished that I hadn't.

The latest and greatest was that "we had to be out of the country by EOB on Monday, April 7." If we didn't comply, the U.S. government would consider us "persona non grata."

When I told Cbeta, she started to cry. We walked a few blocks together, but had to part as she lived on the opposite side of town. So far I had managed to maintain my composure; but that was all about to change.

A few minutes after I said good-bye to Cbeta, my new contact at the U.S. Embassy called. She basically told me the same thing that Peter had, but of course, there was more. When I asked her if someone from the U.S. Embassy could pick me up and drive me to Minsk, she told me "not to count on it because they already had too much on their plates!" I was the only American in Grodno, but no one seemed to realize this. Her advice was that I consider crossing the border and going to the U.S. Embassy in Warsaw, Poland!! Yeah right, with all of my luggage, boxes, and no car. Our conversation ended with this: "to plan as if I had to leave the country tomorrow"... even if it meant I had to leave everything behind.

Right when I thought things couldn't get worse... they did.

As I approached the foot bridge to cross the Neyman River (the main bridge was closed due to construction), I tripped and fell. Thank God the steps had recently been removed and I fell onto soft dirt... but my ankle... there was a sharp stabbing pain. That was it, the flood gates had opened and I sat there sobbing on the ground. A lady stopped to help me, but my Russian wasn't flowing too well at the moment. All I could understand was "taxi" because it sounds the same in both languages. I somehow explained that I didn't have any money... I didn't even have a bus ticket.

I eventually got up and started to limp toward my flat, which was a good 20 minutes away. When I was half-way across the bridge, one of my friends (Alexander) from the American Corner called... his cousin had just passed away... he had finally lost his battle with brain cancer.

In Russian folklore, they say that bad luck comes in threes... and I was beginning to believe them.

The Day From Hell

2008-04-02T04:50:00.006+03:00

Where shall I begin... Monday and Tuesday were somewhat normal despite the fact that the U.S. Embassy told me to stop meeting with my American Corner friends. It turns out that the KGB thing was true and if we continued to meet, even in a private home, they could get into serious trouble. And that was only the beginning...

Around 2:30pm on Wednesday, right in the middle of one of my classes, my phone rang. It was the U.S. Embassy so I stepped outside and took the call. The assistant secretary of defense had terminated all of the U.S. sponsored education programs in Belarus... and yes, that meant me. The decision had been made late the night before, and as Belaurs was 7 hours ahead of Washington DC, the Embassy had just received the news. Everyone was on stand-by as it was possible we would have to leave within one week!

Needless to say, I was in shock.

No More American Corner

2008-03-30T04:25:00.011+03:00

On Sunday afternoon I made the 5-minute walk to the library for our weekly American Corner meeting. When I got there, two of my friends (Irina and Nastya) were standing outside. They immediately broke the bad news: "It wasn't convenient for us to meet at the library!" They further explained that the library was "under renovation" and that all of the books, videos, etc. that had been donated by the U.S. government were already gone! I had to see and hear it for myself, so I went inside alone.

They were right, all of the books, shelves, posters, etc. had been removed, and the door to the computer lab where we usually met was closed. When I asked what was going on, I heard what seemed to be the week's catch phrase: "We're sorry, but it isn't convenient for you to meet here anymore."

Then it hit me... where were the others? No one had called to tell me they were going to miss the meeting, which they usually did. One of the club members had told me that the KGB keeps a list of who attends and that our meetings were always monitored. Could they have been warned not to come?

All of a sudden I felt very, very alone...

More Bad News...

2008-03-28T04:05:00.008+02:00

This afternoon Peter Young (one of the Fulbrighter's in Minsk) called to check in on me. Unfortunately, he had even more bad news. Several classes and lectures had been cancelled at the Belarusian State University with little or no explanation beyond the obviously state mandated "it isn't convenient for us." One of his colleagues cancelled a lunch appointment and the usual invitation to joint his students for a beer after class never came. The other Americans had similar stories to tell and even heard that the American Corners were in jeopardy.

So far nothing strange had happened in Grodno... but then again things always started in the capital city and spread from there. I turned to Lyudmila, my supervisor at Grodno State University, for some reassurance and she said everything was okay. She even called her contact at the U.S Embassy. Everyone was trying to maintain a state of grace despite the dark cloud that was heading our way.

U.S. Embassy Staff Leave Belarus

2008-03-27T19:56:00.018+02:00

The U.S. Embassy staff in Minsk was reduced from 30 to 17 people today. This reduction included the Public Affairs Section (PAS), which oversees U.S. educational initiatives such as the English Language Fellow and Fulbright Programs.

At this time, we were told that our programs were not at risk and to continue business as usual. However, we were instructed to be extra aware of our surroundings and to avoid any meetings or gatherings that could be considered political.

We (the remaining 6 American educators) were all very concerned as our main contact at the U.S. Embassy was gone, and out of reach. Not to mention the recent violence at the demonstration in Minsk and the KGB's accusation of an American spy-ring at the U.S. Embassy. It was even worse for me as I was the sole American in Grodno! My friends invited me to come to Minsk for the weekend, but I didn't want to miss my American Corner meeting on Sunday. Besides, I had a ton of lesson plans to prepare for the following week.

Belarusian KGB Confirms Report About U.S. Spy Ring

2008-03-26T19:52:00.001+02:00

The Belarusian KGB has confirmed a report aired on March 23 by Belarusian television that a U.S. spy ring was smashed in Belarus, Belapan reported on March 25. "Everything that was broadcast by First National Channel is true," KGB spokesman Valery Nadtachayeu told Belapan. The same day, KGB chief Yury Zhadobin said that no one was arrested in connection with the spy ring. "We are doing prevention work now. We are probing to what extent this or that article of law, this or that provision was violated," he said. "The fact that they are trying to dictate their rules to us on our own territory...is unacceptable," he added. According to the report, the U.S. diplomatic mission in Minsk organized a ring involving some 10 Belarusian citizens who passed to the United States information "for the use to the detriment of Belarus." The information was passed to "an FBI officer who worked at the U.S. Embassy," the report said. It also said that almost all members of the group were arrested on March 13 at a "secret address half a kilometer from the U.S. diplomatic mission." The report named U.S. Embassy officers Bernard Nixon and Curt Finley as being involved in the spy ring. Jonathan Moore, deputy chief of mission at the U.S. Embassy in Minsk, denied the report. "We have no spies operating in Belarus," Moore said.

Source:

http://www.rferl.org/newsline/2008/03/3-cee/cee-260308.asp

Over 100 Opposition Activists Arrested in Belarus Demonstration

2008-03-26T19:50:00.000+02:00

MINSK, March 26 (RIA Novosti) - Police arrested over 100 opposition protesters during Tuesday's march in Belarus, in a crackdown set to further bolster the country's authoritarian image, an opposition leader said on Wednesday.

Alexander Milinkevich said opposition supporters had gathered in central Minsk for a peaceful protest, but were attacked by riot police.

"People were carrying flowers. The brutal suppression and beatings of demonstrators, journalists and even elderly people show that the authorities are afraid of us."

Source:

http://en.rian.ru/world/20080326/102256692.html

Police Crush Demonstration in Minsk

2008-03-25T19:48:00.000+02:00

Belarusian police dressed in riot gear have broken up a demonstration in the capital, Minsk, by opponents of the president, Alexander Lukashenko. Witnesses said a few thousand protesters clashed with police after gathering in an attempt to mark 90th anniversary of the country's original founding as an independent state. Some of the demonstrators waved European Union or red and white flags from Belarus' pre-Soviet era. Dozens of activists and journalists are reported to have been arrested.

Source:

http://www.dw-world.de/dw/function/0,,12215_cid_3215833,00.html?maca=en-rss-en-all-1573-rdf

Belarus Says It Has Uncovered U.S. Spy Network

2008-03-25T19:46:00.002+02:00

Belarus's intelligence agency says it has uncovered a network of U.S. spies working in the ex-Soviet republic.

The intelligence agency, known by its Soviet-era initials KGB, made the claim Tuesday. The country's state-run television Sunday accused the U.S. Embassy in Minsk of recruiting spies in Belarus.

The move is the latest sign of crumbling diplomatic relations between the two countries.

Source:

http://www.voanews.com/english/2008-03-25-voa29.cfm

U.S. Agrees to Cut Down Embassy Staff in Minsk to 17

2008-03-25T19:44:00.000+02:00

MINSK. March 25 (Interfax) - Washington will cut down the staff of its embassy in Minsk, although it deems the Belarusian authorities' demand unfounded, U.S. Charge d'Affaires in Belarus Jonathan Moore said.

The United States sees this demand as unfounded and inconsistent from the point of view of diplomatic practice, he said. But the U.S. will meet the demand and the number of U.S. diplomats in Belarus will be reduced from 30 to 17 by the end of March 27, Moore said in a statement on Tuesday.

The statement also says that the embassy will manage to ensure contacts between Belarusian and American citizens, protect the interests of American citizens in Belarus, receive guests in the U.S., and inform the State Department about political and economic developments, the moment it is able to continue its work.

Source:

http://www.interfax.com/3/377560/news.aspx

U.S. Halts Visas for Belarus as Tit-for-Tat Goes Continues

2008-03-19T19:37:00.002+02:00

MINSK (Reuters) - The United States has stopped reviewing Belarussian visa applications for now, its embassy in Minsk said on Wednesday, in a diplomatic spat that continues after Washington's envoy temporarily left the country.

"The U.S. government is at the moment looking at the recommendation of Belarus' Foreign Ministry for a reduction of staff at the U.S. embassy in Minsk," the embassy said in a statement.

Source:

http://www.reuters.com/article/domesticNews/idUSL1974534920080319

Belarus Seeks Staff Cuts in U.S. Eassy

2008-03-17T19:34:00.000+02:00

MINSK (Reuters) - Belarus has asked the United States to cut staff at its embassy in Minsk, a week after Washington's envoy temporarily left the former-Soviet state which the U.S. and European Union says violates human rights.

A statement from the Foreign Ministry said a U.S. diplomat from the embassy had been called in and told of the "urgent recommendation from the Belarussian side that the U.S. embassy in Minsk reduce its number of personnel".

The ministry did not give a reason for this demand.

Source:

http://www.reuters.com/article/politicsNews/idUSL1777959820080317

U.S. Ambassador Temporarily Leaves Belarus

2008-03-12T21:33:00.006+02:00

MINSK, March 12 (Itar-Tass) -- U.S. ambassador to Belarus Karen Stewart on Wednesday left Minsk and is on the way to Washington, the U.S. embassy's press service reported.
The embassy said Stewart's absence would be temporary, and she remained the ambassador to Belarus. The embassy added the United States policy regarding Belarus remained unchanged. The U.S. embassy supported democratic aspirations of the Belarusian people. The U.S. embassy stressed it is only after all political prisoners were unconditionally released that the United States would be ready to consider the subsequent steps toward improving bilateral relations.

Source:
http://www.itar-tass.com/eng/level2.html?NewsID=12470123&PageNum=0 .htm

The Beginning of the End

2008-03-07T21:21:00.007+02:00

Today is October 2, 2008.... I have been back home for 6 months. My Fellowship was tragically cut short due to the deteriorating relationship between the United States and Belarus. It was a very traumatic experience, which is why it has taken me so long to write about it. To better explain what happened, I will post a series of news excerpts beginning with this one from April 7, 2008.

U.S. Ambassador to Belarus Expelled
Belarus has expelled the United States ambassador, after a row over travel restrictions imposed on its president by Washington.
The decision was also prompted by U.S. sanctions imposed on the country's state-controlled oil-processing and chemicals company, Belneftekhim.
The Belarusian Foreign Ministry announced at the same time that it was recalling its own ambassador to the U.S.
A White House spokesman described the expulsion as "deeply disappointing".
The United States - along with the European Union - has restricted the travel of authoritarian President Alexander Lukashenko and members of his inner circle, as well as imposing economic sanctions.
Both the U.S. and the E.U. have demanded that President Lukashenko frees political prisoners, and allows more democratic regimes, before normal relations can be restored.

Source:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/7283847.stm

Winter Retreat

2008-02-18T22:02:00.018+02:00

Even though we’ve had a mild winter, it has been cold, dark, and dreary since the end of October. To help cheer us up, the Cultural Affairs Officer in Minsk organized a weekend retreat (2/15–2/17) for all the visiting Americans. We spent two nights at “Homestead Above the Neyman River,” a bed & breakfast located outside a small town called Berezovka. I made the 2-hour trip alone and waited for the rest of the group who were traveling from Minsk. They were caught in Friday afternoon traffic and then a nasty snow storm. When they finally arrived, we had a nice, Belarusian-style dinner and stayed up late talking and drinking wine.

On Saturday we visited the Neman glass factory in Berezovka. When Belarus was part of the U.S.S.R., this factory was the second largest in the country. I’ve seen a lot of Soviet-style factories, but this was my first experience seeing what was hidden inside. The factory is 125 years old, and once we entered its belly, it felt like we had traveled back in time. I was amazed that the majority of the products are still made by hand and that they let us get so close to the work stations. After our tour, we stopped at a small cottage to visit a local wood worker who, like most people in the area, used to work at the glass factory. I bought a small wooden vase made from local drift wood.

After a rest and another tasty meal, we drove to Lida, which is about 30 minutes from Berezovka. We tried to visit the Lida Fortress, but the gates were locked so we visited an Orthodox bazaar at the local community center. It was really crowded so we didn’t stay long, although I did manage to buy a scarf and listen as a few monks tested some new church bells. Next, we wandered around Lida and ended up at the Лидское (Lid-ska-ya) Brewery. I was happy as this beer is very popular in Grodno, and over the past few months I've come to know it well. Unfortunately, it was too late for a tour, but the bar was still open so we went inside to warm up. After a few beers, we walked back across town and returned to the bed & breakfast.

Later that evening, I had my first баня (banya/sauna) experience. It didn’t take long for someone to grab a bunch of wet birch leaves. The idea is to beat yourself, and each other, with the leaves to improve the circulation. It doesn’t hurt at all, but it sounds awful and leaves red patches all over your skin. I drank plenty of water and herbal tea, and when it got too hot I stepped outside to cool off. It was fun to watch the steam come off my body, but I don’t think it was very smart as I started to get dizzy from the extreme temperature change. I was saved by the dinner bell, and after a quick shower we all sat down for yet another big meal. Everyone was so relaxed from the sauna, and tired from the day's excursions, that right after dinner we called it a night.

When I woke up Sunday morning it was snowing, but after a few cups of coffee we decided to go for a walk. No one wanted to waste our last few hours trapped inside the house. We walked through a small neighborhood and then along the banks of the Neyman River. After our walk, we asked the owner, Valery, to play his гусли (goos-lee). This instrument is about 1,000 years old and sounds like a cross between a harp and a guitar. He was trained to play in St. Petersburg during Soviet times, and then traveled across Europe giving concerts. He saved his money, bought some land in his hometown, and eventually built the bed & breakfast with his wife Oksana.

After lunch, it was time for us to go. I took the bus back to Grodno and everyone else headed back to Minsk. The snow continued all afternoon and when I finally got home, everything was covered with a soft white blanket of snow. (Look under "Winter Retreat" for more photos.)

My Belarusian-style Birthday

2008-02-12T21:38:00.016+02:00

I should start out by saying that I had a wonderful, cross-cultural birthday. Let me explain. In Belarus the birthday person is responsible for throwing his or her own party, which is the exact opposite of the American tradition. I’m just glad that I had almost 6 months to observe the customs, or I would've freaked out.

The festivities began at 1:00pm at the office. Zhanna met me at 12:30 to help me choose a cake, actually 2 cakes, one for the office and one for my dinner party. I had already purchased some caramel tea bags, plates, forks, and napkins, so I was ready to go. No one sang me happy birthday, but they did pinch my ears! The tradition is to pinch both ears one time for every year, ouch! My co-workers gave me a beautiful bouquet of flowers and then we sat down and enjoyed the cake.

After the office celebration, I went home to relax for a few hours. I was more than ready as I had been preparing for several days: cleaning the flat and then making several trips to the store. Remember that I do all my shopping on foot. I had to make one trip just to buy the wine and juice! To make my life easier I prepared the pasta sauce the night before, so all I had to do was boil the pasta, make a salad, and then slice some fruit, cheese, and bread.

My guests started to arrive at 7:00pm, and I promptly got my ears pinched 36 times! I only had one pinch at the office, so my ears were ready for the attack. This pinching is more for kids than grown-ups…they think the stimulation helps them grow…but it’s still a fun tradition. Everyone managed to squeeze into the living room around my small coffee table. I don’t have a dining room table and the kitchen is way too small for 9 people: me, Cbeta, Zhanna, Alena, Vasya, Irina, Olga, Anya, and Nadya. Everyone seemed to like my pasta dinner and we managed to finish 4 bottles of wine. And then there was the second cake…

I opened my gifts toward the end of the night, and everyone went home by 11:00pm. It was a school and work night after all. Looking back, it was a great experience, even all those trips to the store. I did miss blowing out my candles, but hey, there’s always next year. (Look under "My Birthday" for more photos.)

Mid-Year Conference: Kiev, Ukraine

2008-02-04T21:24:00.043+02:00

My journey to Kiev began on January 30^th at 6:10am and included a 10-minute walk to the train station, a 6-hour train ride from Grodno to Minsk, a ride across Minsk on the metro, another 10-minute walk to the bus station, a 45-minute bus ride to the airport, a 1-hour plane ride from Minsk to Kiev, and finally a 20-minute taxi ride. Whew! It was almost 9:30pm when I arrived at the Hotel Ukraine and I was starving. Luckily, I spotted some colleagues and joined them for a late dinner.

The Mid-Year Conference began the next morning around 9:30, after everyone had made it past the U.S. Embassy security. We spent all day talking about how we could make our projects more sustainable, trouble-shooting common problems, and learning about other U.S.-sponsored programs. That evening the Public Affairs Officer and her husband had a reception for us at their flat. It was nice, but I didn’t get enough to eat so afterward a few of us went looking for a café. Kiev is a big, urban city and I assumed it would have a healthy nightlife, but every place we found had already closed at 10:30pm or was getting ready to close at 11:00pm! Once again luck was on my side as I had bought a few bananas and some water at the market earlier, or I would’ve gone to bed hungry.

On Friday morning the sun came out but we missed it as we were trapped inside the embassy all day. They even closed the thick curtains so we wouldn’t be distracted… no fair! At least the second day of the conference was more intriguing. We all had a chance to talk about our projects and several people gave formal presentations. It was really interesting as there were Fellows from the following countries: Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Moldova, and Ukraine. The U.S. Ambassador to Ukraine visited with us for about an hour in the afternoon, and then we wrapped things up.

Later that night a bunch of us went to see the ballet version of “Master and Margarita” by Mikhail Bulgakov. My friends in Grodno had told me about this book, which was banned during Soviet times, so I was very curious. To the best of my knowledge, it’s a satire based on the devil’s visit to the atheist USSR and is full of cultural innuendo. Not knowing the story didn’t bother me one bit as the costumes, music, and sets were incredible. It was definitely not your traditional ballet!

Saturday was our only free day and of course it was cold and cloudy. A few of us decided to hang out together and do some sightseeing. We visited the Lavra, which is a Ukrainian Orthodox monastery founded in 1051. Many people call it a “city in the city” because there are several streets circling the old churches and monastery buildings. The highlight was going underground to visit the two “cave churches.” The monks used to meditate in these caves and many of their mummified remains are now on display. The bodies are wrapped in fabric but they are in glass coffins, and each has an oil burning candle hanging over it. My friends saw a few finger bones poking out, but I hadn’t looked that closely.

After a late lunch we went to St. Sophia’s Cathedral, which is the oldest surviving church in Kiev (1037). Nowadays, the church is a museum so we were able to walk around and explore. The inside is gorgeous as there are original mosaics and frescos that date back to the 11^th century. And I instantly fell in love with the color palette and patterns: rich terra cotta with deep blue and green accents. It felt so warm and cozy, and the golden altars and mosaics really stood out. Too bad cameras were not allowed, although I did buy a guidebook for $3 so I could remember the color combinations.

After a quick shower, it was back to the opera house for “Madame Butterfly.” We couldn’t resist as the tickets were so affordable ($10-15 USD), and just being inside the opera house was a treat. I wasn’t as impressed with the opera, but it was still a nice, cultural experience.

On Sunday, February 3^rd, it was time for another travel day. I managed to ride on even more vehicles on my way back to Grodno, which means I set a new personal record! Check it out and remember that I had my luggage with me the entire time: I walked a few blocks from the Hotel Ukraine to the metro, I took the metro to the train station, then a bus to the airport, then flew back to Minsk. Then I took the bus from the airport to the bus station, walked 10 minutes to the metro station, took the metro across town to the train station, waited around for 2 hours, took the 6-hour train from Minsk to Grodno, then finished the night with a 10-minute walk to my flat. I didn’t even have the energy to go to the store for milk, but went right to sleep.

Overall the trip was enjoyable, although I never had any free, alone time to walk around and take pictures. Everyone kept saying “You must come back in the springtime, it is so beautiful!” I wouldn’t mind going back as Kiev is a wonderful, ancient city. There are so many places to visit and I just scratched the surface. (Go to "My Trip to Kiev" under My Photos.)

A Puerto Rican in Belarus - Part 2

2008-01-18T00:39:00.006+02:00

Once we decided to stay in Grodno, the fun began! We started the week off by throwing a party for my friends from the American Corner. Néstor and I spent all day Sunday preparing and our guests arrived at 6pm. Everyone seemed to enjoy the pasta with tomato and meat sauce that we prepared, and of course we had plenty of champagne and sweets, so everyone was happy. It was really nice to discuss life from three different cultural perspectives: Belarusian, Puerto Rican, and American. Highlights of the night included Néstor and me each singing a solo with the videotape rolling! We had no choice as the girls sang a nice Russian song for us and then promptly told us it was our turn! We tried to get out of it, but they wouldn’t have it. In case you are wondering, I sang "Rudolf the Red Nosed Reindeer." And Néstor sang "He Renuciado a Ti" ("I Have Renounced You") by Jose Jose, to the delight of all the ladies! Around 10pm, everyone got bundled up to go outside. The snow was really coming down and we had a nice snowball fight: boys versus girls. Then Néstor and I made snow angels; this was another first for him. We were surprised that no one joined us, I guess it’s an American thing?

The rest of the week we spent visiting local cafes and restaurants, sightseeing, and hanging out with my friends. We slept in and stayed up late, after all we were on vacation! On Monday night, we visited a café called Несцерка (Nyé-stir-ka), which means little Néstor. Russian speakers love to use the diminutive forms of nouns, just like the Spanish ita and ito. How cool that Néstor’s name has a Russian equivalent. As far as we know it's a Greek name, so it must have migrated both East and West! Tuesday afternoon Néstor managed to get a photo of some local military men. We were walking down Lenin Street and we saw some young Belarusian soldiers. He asked Света to ask them for a photo, as fellow military men, and they agreed. BTW, all men, with very few exceptions, are required to serve for a short time (approximately 1 year). On Wednesday night, Néstor and I had a pizza at Ретро (Re-tro) and then went to my favorite disco and danced for several hours. It’s hard to find good house music in the States, so we soaked up all we could. On Thursday night we hung out with Irina, my Russian teacher, and visited two cafes. Our favorite place was Кронон (Kro-non). It only has 8 small tables, but it's cozy and the food is tasty, not to mention they have a nice selection of beer and wine. We fell in love with the sign hanging over the bar that says in Latin, “Truth in Wine.” On Friday night, we had a fabulous dinner with Света and her family, and Néstor really connected with her dad, Vladimir. Too bad his trip was so short, or the two of them would've gone ice fishing together. Maybe next time? On Saturday night, Néstor and I treated my friends to a night at the disco. We went the whole nine yards and reserved a table and ordered a nice dinner and drinks too. On Sunday evening my boss, Lyudmila, treated us to a home-cooked meal. It was fantastic! Monday night we had one last meal at Карчма (Karch-ma), and ate our favorite stuffed pork rolls with roasted potatoes, вкусный (f-koos-nih) yummy!

Time flew by and before we knew it Tuesday morning had arrived; time to head back to Minsk so Néstor could catch his flight back to Texas. Everyone was so warm and welcoming, so much so that Néstor wanted to say with me. He fell in love with all the Russian salads (I’m currently learning how to make them) and the Belarusian hospitality, or maybe it was that fur hat? ;-) If it wasn’t for his job with the U. S. Air Force, he’d still be here with me today…

(For more photos, go to "A Puerto Rican in Belarus - Part 2" under My Photos)

You Shall Not Pass!

2008-01-07T19:49:00.000+02:00

When Néstor was planning his visit, I asked him to apply for a double-entry visa. After all, I have been here for 4 months and have yet to visit another country, which is a shame considering the close proximity of Poland and Lithuania. So he paid the extra money ($131 single entry; $232 double entry) and I got busy planning a short trip. After asking my friends, searching online, and visiting a local travel agency, I decided that the best option was to stay one night in Druskininkai, Lithuania, which is known for its "sanitoriums" (saunas/spas), and then travel to Vilnius so we could see the Old Town. I made the reservations and bought our bus tickets, so we were all set to go. That was until the U.S. Embassy told us the bad news: The checkpoint our bus was going to use was not an “international border crossing.” This means that only Belarusian and Lithuanian citizens can pass through. Funny that the travel agency didn’t warn me about this. What made matters worse is that the crossing we could use (M11) would turn the 1.5 hour trip from Grodno to Druskininkai into closer to 10 hours, not to mention that we would have to make a huge circle and backtrack, which neither of us wanted to do. (Double click on the photo above and you'll see what I mean.) Time for Plan B, which was to skip Druskininkai and just go to Vilnius for 2 days. This made more sense as it was a straight shot from the M11 crossing. Sounds easy enough… but when we went to the bus station we were told that the bus only departed on Tuesdays and Sundays, and we needed to go on Thursday! Another option was to go back to Minsk (3–4 hours on a marshrutka) and then take a 4-hour train to Vilnius, but we had just come from there and backtracking never sits well. Our last ditch effort was to rent a car and drive ourselves, but this idea was shot down when we were unable to find a car rental office in Grodno. Toward the end we even contemplated walking or skiing across the border!

We were both frustrated and more than a little disappointed at our failure. After investing so much time and energy it was hard to let it go, but we both felt better when we finally decided to hang out and relax in Grodno. I should add that we later found out that we could’ve taken a marshrutka to Vilnius, instead of the bus, and they depart for Vilnius everyday! Then again, who knows which border crossing they use. Like Néstor and I said, "It was not meant to be." Maybe there was a reason we were not supposed to go on this trip?

More Stamps

2008-01-05T16:41:00.000+02:00

On Saturday morning we met Viktar, my landlord, so he could “register” Néstor to the flat. The Belarusian government keeps track of its citizens and visitors, so we had to visit the Immigration and Passport Control Office, present the proper documents, and pay a small fee ($10 USD). When you stay at a hotel the front desk registers you, which means they have to keep your passport for a few hours, or sometimes overnight. But when you stay in a private residence the owner has to take care of the paperwork. Unlike my registration experience back in September, Néstor’s was uneventful, which was a good thing. The only excitement came at the last minute when the lady was about to reach for her stamp, but instead got up and started digging through a filing cabinet in the corner of the office. All we could do was stand there, watch, and hold our breaths. We had no idea what she was looking for, but whatever it was she didn’t find it, so she finally came back to her desk. Then we heard the magical sound of the stamps being made: Success was ours!

Our happiness made the 20-minute walk across town more enjoyable. The sun was shining, but it was still very cold and windy. At midnight it had been –10° Celsius (14° F) and a friend told us the overnight low was –15° C (5° F); the coldest night of winter so far.

Sorry I don’t have more photos for this entry, but it’s not very smart to take out your camera in or around government buildings in Belarus, unless you feel like practicing your Russian with a police officer. Did I tell you that they still have the KGB (КГБ) here? Belarus is unique in that respect, as all the other ex-Soviet countries did away with it, or at least changed the name of the organization. I walk past their local headquarters all the time, which is directly across from the police station, or militia (Милиция). I figure that if they’re watching me, I might as well make their job a little easier. Maybe one day I’ll figure out how to get a photo of the building, sign and all, without getting into trouble. But seeing as though they have surveillance cameras, it will probably never happen. You’ll just have to take my word for it, or come check it out yourself.

A Puerto Rican in Belarus - Part 1

2008-01-04T23:36:00.000+02:00

On January 2, I traveled to Minsk via “marshrutka” (12 passenger van) as Néstor was arriving the next afternoon. I spent the night with my friend Elise and was very happy when she offered to drive me to the airport, which is located about 45 minutes from the city. We arrived at the gate just in time to see him walk through customs. What a great feeling to finally hug and kiss each other again; neither of us could stop smiling! Like me, all his flights had been on time and all his luggage made it through with no problems. Now it was time for his 2-week adventure to begin.

We spent the night at the Hotel Planeta and managed to squeeze in a few hours of sightseeing the next day. We didn’t have time to do much as we had to catch the 4:22pm train to Grodno, although I did finish my last minute holiday shopping at “Univermag” (the state owned department store). The highlight of the day was watching a fire truck empty its tank to create an ice skating rink around the New Year’s Tree in October Square. It was so cold that the water froze instantly and people began to play and slide on the ice, even without their skates. Now that was definitely something new for my Puerto Rican!

Néstor finally got some sleep during the 6-hour train ride to Grodno. And we had a blast playing with our camera. We had heard that you aren’t supposed to take photos of the trains (a throw back to Soviet times?), so we kept sneaking our camera out when the cabin attendant wasn’t looking or when he went to another car. The joke will be on us if we ever find out that it’s actually okay to take pictures, but we had some good laughs nevertheless. The train pulled into Grodno at 10:00pm and we dragged our luggage a few blocks to my flat. It felt great to finally be free of it. Next, I took Néstor to the 24-hour shop on Sovietskaya Street to buy some fresh milk and bread. Then it was back home to prepare his first meal, which like mine, consisted of пелъмени (meat filled dumplings) and a local beer. The only difference was that we had soy sauce, which is a very tasty way to spice up your “pil-main-ee.” So went Néstor’s first 36-hours in Belarus and our first night together in Grodno, my home away from home. (Check out " A Puerto Rican in Belarus: Part 1" under My Photos.)

C Нобым Годом! Happy New Year!

2008-01-02T00:17:00.000+02:00

After spending a quiet Christmas so far from home, I was ready to celebrate the New Year, which is the biggest holiday in Belarus. I spent the night with my friend Сбета and her family including her mom, dad, sister, grandma, and cousin. The evening began with a huge Belarusian-style feast of chicken, pork, sausages, boiled potatoes, several special holiday salads, caviar, tomato slices, cheese, pickled cucumbers and carrots, bread, fresh fruit, juices, champagne, amaretto, red wine, and last but not least, a huge bottle of vodka. We started our meal around 8:00 pm and the drinks began to flow. I was happy to participate in the series of toasts that always accompany a gathering of friends and family, no matter how big or small. This tradition is one of my favorite parts of Belarusian culture as the toasts are often very meaningful to those involved. Rather than gulping down your drinks in silence, everyone comes together to enjoy and commemorate the moment. Although you can get yourself into trouble as many people insist that you finish all of your drink each time. My advice is to make sure you have a small glass!

It was New Year’s Eve and I was in the mood to party, so by golly I finished each of my shots of vodka and washed them down with a закуска (za-kooz-ka, snack). In this case it was a slice of pickle, Russian style! After an hour or two I realized that the huge table of food served a second purpose, to help counteract all the vodka that we, or at least Сбета’s dad and I, were drinking. It didn’t take long for us to team up, and I later learned that he was very pleased to have a drinking buddy for the night. We carried on like this until 11:00 pm at which time everyone, except Сбета’s mom, stood up and toasted Happy New Year to Moscow! What an experience for a girl whose father visited the U.S.S.R. during the Cold War as a U.S. Air Force officer. Who would ever have guessed that one day I would share a special holiday meal with a man who once served in the Soviet military!

When the clock finally struck midnight in Belarus, we had yet another toast and enjoyed the national anthem as it played on the television. Next, everyone sat down to listen to President Lukashenka’s New Year’s Greetings. As usual, I was happy to understand a handful of words, but you can visit the Embassy of Belarus (http://www.belarusembassy.org/) for a full English translation. After the speech, we continued to watch the special New Year’s Eve programs, which were very similar to those in the United States. One big difference, besides the presidential address, was that no one kissed me at midnight. As my boyfriend was back home in Texas, I didn’t mind the lack of affection.

Not long after midnight, we lit some sparkles and enjoyed the barrage of fireworks that were exploding all around the flat and throughout the city. It was somewhere around the sparkles that I began to lose track of time… Сбета invited me to go with her to the center to enjoy the huge party and concert, but I was in no condition to travel. She left with her cousin and I somehow managed to help clear the table and then promptly fell asleep on the living room couch. I vaguely remember seeing Father Frost place gifts under the New Year’s tree, which was right next to my bed.

The next thing I knew it was 2:00 pm on New Year’s Day, my head was killing me, and someone was offering me a cup of champagne. You know the saying, “A hair of the dog that bit you.” The worst part was that Сбета’s dad had woken up at 9:00 am to play football (aka soccer) with his friends! A piece of advice to my fellow Americans: When it comes to drinking vodka, never ever try to keep up with a Russian or a Belarusian! Better yet, make it anyone from any country that has ever had anything to do with Russia. It’s in their blood I tell you! It’s in their blood!

Merry Catholic Christmas

2007-12-25T20:54:00.000+02:00

I wish you a Merry Catholic Christmas, I wish you a Merry Catholic Christmas, I wish you a Merry Catholic Christmas, and a Happy New Year! As most Belarusians are Orthodox, December 25th isn't that big a deal. All but one of my friends are Orthodox so they don't do anything special for Catholic Christmas. However, there is a large Catholic population here, as Belarus used to belong to Poland, so everyone gets December 24-25 off work. My supervisor, Lyudmila Milhailovna, was kind enough to invite me to her flat and she prepared a wonderful dinner just for me. I spent Christmas Eve with Cbeta and Nadia and we had a great time playing with two Santa hats, sparkles, and some other decorations. We also visited the New Year's Trees that are located in Lenin Square and Soviet Square.

By far, New Year's Eve is the biggest holiday here. Father Frost comes and brings gifts with the help of his granddaughter, Snegurochka (Snow Maiden). I'm very excited because I will spend December 31st with Cbeta and her family, so I'll get to experience a real Belarusian-style holiday! I'll tell you more about the traditions next week...

Orthodox Christmas is on January 7. But like Catholic Christmas, this day is only a big deal for the religious folks and many people simply enjoy having a day off. I finally learned why the dates are different, 13 days to be exact. The Orthodox church still follows the Julian calendar for its holidays and the Catholic church uses the Gregorian calendar. This difference also means that the Old New Year falls on January 13, so they leave all the decorations up until mid-January when the holiday season is finally over. Overall it's kinda cool, they have two Christmases and two New Years. December 24-25, January 1-2, and January 7 are vacation days too. So basically the holidays are just getting started here! (Go to My Christmas under My Photos for a few more.)

Winter Solstice

2007-12-22T23:21:00.000+02:00

Oh gloomy day! One of the hardest things about living through the Belarusian winter is the darkness. Today is the shortest day of the year with only 7 hours, 23 minutes, and 59 seconds of daylight, if you can call it that! The sun rose at 8:26am and will set at 3:50pm. For some comparison, back home in Texas they will have 10 hours, 14 minutes, and 1 second of daylight today, with the sun rising at 7:13am and setting at 5:27pm. It's amazing how much our bodies and minds are influenced by the sun. I am now a firm believer in circadian rhythms, as mine are definitely out of wack! All I want to do is sleep, more like hibernate, and hope that one day the sun will peek out from behind the thick layer of clouds. On the rare occasions that the sun does break through, I always go for a walk so I can soak up the fleeting rays, just like a lizard. On the bright side, the cloud cover is keeping me warm and it is kinda nice to sleep until 9-10:00 am without the sun streaming through my windows. Also, tomorrow we will have 5 more seconds of daylight. Oh happy day!

My Food

2007-12-18T17:11:00.000+02:00

In my last post, I showed you what I typically buy when I go shopping. I also make several small trips each week for fresh bread, milk, and bottled water . . . and sometimes for beer. It’s hard to resist when a liter of good beer costs about 50 cents. Processed foods are rare as are preservatives, which means the bread and dairy products only last 2–3 days. BTW, the best dairy is located in the city of Brest, so the label says “Brest Milk” hee-hee! When I tell my friends that we can store milk for 1 week they are shocked. They also find it strange that we can buy so many ready-made products. People cook the majority of their meals from scratch and it took me a few weeks to adjust as it definitely takes more planning and time. For example, I make pasta with meat sauce at least once a week and I have to create my own sauce starting with plain tomato paste. After a few attempts I managed to create my own recipe. Onions, garlic, potatoes, and cabbages are available year-round and many other fruits and vegetables are too, but they are harder to find and more expensive. For the most part, people eat what is in season or what they have stored in their root cellars or canned for the winter. Pickling is also very popular.

For breakfast I eat oatmeal; cream of wheat; cereal with milk; or fruit, granola, and yogurt and wash it all down with a cup or two of coffee. I was pleasantly surprised to find a small kiosk that sells whole-bean coffee. Of course I brought my coffee grinder with me, as only a true coffee addict would do! I use a coffee press and boil my water in a tea kettle that sounds like a choo-choo train when it whistles. I love it as it adds an extra dimension to my morning ritual. For lunch I eat leftovers from the night before, or have something simple like bread, ham, cheese, and juice. Sometimes I have lunch at the canteen at school where you can have an entire meal for about $2.00. I don’t go out to eat very often, maybe 2 or 3 times per month. I live so close to school that it’s more convenient for me to eat lunch at home. For dinner, I choose from the following ingredients: rice, pasta, potatoes, beans, cheese, bread, ground beef, pork, sausage, ham, eggs, frozen and canned vegetables, olives, and spices. For a midnight snack, I often have pan-fried toast, jam, and a glass of cold milk. It’s amazing what you can create with a little creativity!

When I don’t feel like cooking I just boil some dumplings [пельмени, pil-main'-ee] and garnish them with fresh sour cream or ketchup. They are a basic staple in these parts and are filled with different types of meat and spices. Think of a ravioli minus the cheese. Potato pancakes [драники, dran'-i-kee], often referred to as the national specialty, are also easy to make. Just shred a few potatoes, add some onion, garlic, and an egg and fry them in a skillet. They are excellent served warm with salt and sour cream. I was also very happy to find popcorn . . . no, not the microwave packages, just good ole fashioned kernels. Look under My Photos and then “My Food” for more examples of my culinary creations.

Groceries

2007-12-17T21:29:00.000+02:00

I went shopping today and bought two bags of groceries plus 5 liters of water and a bottle of red wine for 37,720 rubles ($17.66 USD). Here's a list of what I took home, not bad huh?

bottle of wine
water 5 liters
milk 1 liter
tomato juice 1 liter
pumpkin/apple juice 1 liter - sounds weird but it's actually quite tasty!
bread
cheese
sugar
apricot jam
olives
red beans
spice pack
candy bar
sour cream
dumplings

Deep Thoughts About Money and the Holidays

2007-12-06T23:59:00.000+02:00

My last phone bill was 271,020 rubles ($127.00). My dial-up connection cost $25 and the rest was for international calls to США (

USA

). So what you ask? Well, my landlord’s father didn’t have enough cash to pay the bill. You see he pays for everything and then I pay him back. To put things in perspective you should know that the average Belarusian makes $200 USD per month, and a doctor earns about $400. I was actually embarrassed to have such a high bill even though back home it would be totally normal. When I paid my bill I wondered what the lady was thinking as I handed her my wad of rubles, the same amount that she probably earns in 3 weeks.

When the topic of money comes up, I have to explain how much it costs to survive in the United States so they get some perspective. But somehow it always feels like I’m apologizing… when you’re talking to someone who makes $2,400–4,800 per year, it’s hard to convince them that my $25,000 grant is nothing in the States. After a few of these agonizing discussions, I have learned to steer clear of the subject.

Being here has made me question many things about my life back home; for example, do I really need to wear a new outfit every day of the week? Do I really need all those shoes in my closet? Does every person really need a car? Do I really need to use throw away bags when I shop? How many presents do I really need to receive or give on Christmas? Do I really need a new cell phone or camera just because the newest model is smaller or has more features? Over the past three months, I have learned that the answer to all of these questions is “no.” To blend in with my colleagues, I wear my clothes more than one day; I don’t have a car so I walk or take the bus; and when I shop I always bring my own bags with me. And speaking of technology, I am among the privileged few who have a computer in their homes, let alone a high-speed Internet connection with Skype.

In many ways, living here has been a very liberating experience. Life is simpler, but in many ways it is lived on a deeper level. Many people have to work two jobs to make ends meet, entire families share the same small flat, most people don’t have cars… but somehow they manage to survive. It seems like the little things mean more here. I’m not saying that everyone should sell all their possessions and move to Belarus. I’d be lying if I said this place didn’t have any problems because it does. But what it does have is a version of life minus the commercialism and materialism that surrounds us in the United States. As for me it’s a breath of fresh air, especially as the holidays approach. Do we really need to start hearing Christmas music and advertisements the day after Halloween? If increasing retail sales and credit card debt is the main spirit of the season then I guess the answer is yes. I can’t tell you how good it feels to remove myself from the feeding frenzy that I know is going on back home.

Seeing yourself and your culture through the eyes of others is an intense experience; sometimes you like what you see, but other times you don’t. I’ll leave you with this thought: A fish that never leaves the sea, never discovers water.

Big Mac Attack

2007-11-21T20:10:00.000+02:00

I know, I know...why would I travel halfway around the world only to eat at McD's? I totally agree with you, but I thought it'd be fun to try it one time. You know, for the culture experience of comparison. I ordered a Big Mac and shared an order of fries with a friend. The food tasted exactly the same, but I giggled when we ordered "Dva Big Macs" for (two). The restaurant was very crowded and the service was great, they even helped us find a table. And we watched in awe as someone mopped the floor next to our table not once, but twice during our meal! Too bad we don't get this type of service back home. Don't worry, this McDonald's is in downtown Minsk so there's no danger of a repeat anytime soon. Wow! I just realized that the closet McDonald's is 300 kilometers away from me. How many people in the States can say that? Click the photo so you can see the cool Russian-style menu!

Dinner with the Ambassador

2007-11-19T00:03:00.000+02:00

One of the most exciting nights of my Fellowship happened on Thursday, November 15. The U.S. Ambassador to Belarus, Karen Stewart, hosted a special dinner to recognize the important scholarly and teaching contributions of the Fulbright and English Language Fellow programs. As I am the only American not assigned to Minsk this year, I was placed at the Ambassador’s table during dinner. It was a wonderful experience as there were many interesting people at my table including the Ambassador and her assistant, a well-known Belarusian artist and professor, a Fulbright scholar, and someone from the State Department. I was very proud of myself for striking up the conversation when we first sat down. It took me awhile to adjust to working with the Ambassador’s translator as the artist and professor did not speak English. Once everyone had a glass or two of wine the conversation really got going. It was very interesting to hear all the different perspectives at the table and of course to get to know the Ambassador. I felt at ease and thoroughly enjoyed myself; I even asked the Ambassador for a photo! To end the evening we were treated with a private performance of the cymbaly, or hammer dulcimer, by one of the world's best players. The cymbaly is one of the many traditional Belarusian musical instruments.

On November 15, the temperature in Minsk dropped down to -10 C with the wind chill factor! This was a big wake up call for me…a sign of what’s to come. Minsk is always colder than Grodno and the 6 inches of snow were all the proof I needed. Despite the chilly temperatures I was able to do some exploring on Friday afternoon. Minsk is a big city (1 million) and has its advantages like a metro and more nightlife, restaurants, shops, etc. But Grodno (330,000) is calmer, has more character, and has more of the traditional, old-world feel. In fact, Grodno is a much older city and has almost all of its original architecture, which unlike Minsk's was spared during WWII.

On Saturday, November 17, I took the 4:20pm train from Minsk to Grodno (13,000 BYR; $6.50 USD) and arrived at 10:10pm. As I dragged my suitcase from the train station to my flat I had a weird experience, I actually felt happy to be “back home.” I was also happy to find the temperature was a warm 3 C and that the streets were ice-free. For more pictures go to “My Trip to Minsk” under My Photos.

The First Snow

2007-11-07T22:20:00.000+02:00

The weather forecasters were right! They predicted a 70% chance of snow last night and when I woke up around 4am I found the streets were already covered. I went back to bed but set my alarm for 7am so I could snap a few photos before the sun came up. The sidewalks were clear when I went out at 11am and by the mid-afternoon most of the snow had melted. The temps are projected to be between 32-36 F for the next few days and more sleet/snow is possible. I'm so happy I have a warm winter coat with a nice hood and plenty of scarves; it isn't so bad when you're all bundled up like an Eskimo!

My Flat via Google Earth

2007-11-06T12:45:00.000+02:00

See the red box at the bottom edge of the page? That's my apartment, I mean that's my "flat," as I have been corrected several times. Everyone speaks British English here, so I have become very aware of my "ds" in butter, later, thirty, water, etc. It may also have something to do with the American English class I am teaching. It sounded easy enough until I learned I had to compare and contrast American and British English!! Uugh! I don't know British English and I really don't want to. It could have something to do with a little war that happened back in 1776 :-) Anyway, now that I've started the class it isn't so bad and it's actually kinda fun pretending to be a Brit.

Speaking of accents and nationalities, a few days ago someone told me I have a Polish accent when I speak Russian. But many other people have commented that I have excellent Russian pronunciation, which makes me feel great! And last night someone else told me I looked Russian and asked if I have any Russian ancestors. Funny, huh? Let's just hope it was a compliment...

BTW, I've been in Belarus for 2 months and so far I'm doing okay. I have learned enough Russian to get around town, albeit with a few bumps along the way; to buy food in the open-air markets; and to navigate my way around the university. I've also managed to make several friends and this is something I'm very proud of as many foreigners shy away from the locals. Don't get me wrong, there are days when I hide inside the comfort of my flat. It's not easy being the only Amerikanka in town! Some days are really hard and sometimes they come one after another. But there are other days when I feel great, when I learn something new, when I'm successful in the market, or when I make my students laugh. So far my Fellowship has been a very humbling, life changing experience and I can only imagine what the next 8 months will bring...

Happy Halloween!

2007-10-31T22:34:00.000+02:00

On October 30th and 31^st, I went to school dressed like a witch and carried my glowing jack-o-lantern through the hallways (that's me on the far right). Keep in mind that people don’t celebrate Halloween in

Bela

rus

, so you can image all the strange looks and stares! One energetic, creative class threw a Halloween Party and they invited me to join them! It sure felt nice being with other people in costumes, if only for an hour. After the party, I entertained several other classes by sharing what I know about the holiday’s ancient origins and its modern day celebration, including a slideshow with photos I had collected from my family and friends. The students loved seeing how we celebrate Halloween as it’s hard for them to get a grip on how big the holiday really is for us. I imagine it does sound quite strange to them: people dress up like dead people and monsters and decorate their homes, schools, and offices with skeletons, ghosts, witches, spiders, and black cats! I had a great time and was enjoying all the attention until I started to walk home. In addition to spooking countless unsuspecting people on the street, I managed to spook a stray dog who growled and barked at me all the way home. Luckily, I was able to cross the street and hide in a crowd of people who were walking my direction. I made it home in one piece, but it sure was a creepy Halloween experience! I’ll post more pictures under “My Photos.”

Get Off the Bus!

2007-10-26T00:39:00.000+03:00

With highs in the 40s F, it was definitely time to buy my winter coat. I met my friend Света and we headed for Рынок Южный, which means “southern market.” It sounded like an easy enough task... but just getting to her apartment was an adventure! After my morning class I hopped on bus #8, punched my ticket, and found a seat near the window, just like any local would do. Or so I thought! After a few stops, everyone got off the bus and I was left alone. The bus driver kept repeating something in agitated Russian and somewhere around the third time I realized he was talking to me! I finally got the clue and got off the bus. The only problem was I had no idea where I was… as I reached for my phone to call my friend I saw another bus approaching with #8 attached to the front. “Close call!” I thought to myself as I hopped on the bus. “But wait a second? Am I on an aftobus or a trolley bus? Does it matter? Didn’t someone tell me that the aftobusses and trolley busses have the same route numbers? Yes, I’m sure they did… but wasn’t the bus supposed to turn left at that circle? Why don’t I recognize any of these buildings? Oh no… why I am the only person on the bus?” This time the driver only had to repeat himself two times before I realized I was at the end of the line and had to get off once again with my tail wedged firmly between my legs! I had really done it this time, I was at the edge of town and it was freezing cold. Thank God for cell phones! I called Света and in my broken Russian I was able to sound out one of the signs across the street. It only took me 10 minutes to walk back to the traffic circle I should have turned left at where I found my friend waiting for me. In a few minutes we were on yet another bus at which time she explained to me that I should always check the busses for a sign that says “To garage!” And that the trolley busses and aftobusses don’t have the same routes after all... Note to self!

At least my shopping experience was successful. It took awhile, but after trying on about 20 different coats I finally found “the one.” BTW, don’t tell PETA, but everyone still wears real fur here. You know the saying “When in Belarus, do as the Belarusians!” Besides, my fur zips off so I can hide it once I get back to the States.

A Slice of Life

2007-10-24T16:41:00.000+03:00

Yes, this is a nice photo of Sovietska Plaza with the blue sky and cathedral in the background, but if you take a closer look it also reveals many interesting things about Belarusian culture.

First, this is a Catholic church, which is a big deal considering Belarus is 82% Russian Orthodox. Grodno, my city, is very interesting because it has belonged to many different countries throughout its long history, which began in 1128. In recent times, Grodno belonged to Lithuania which used to include Poland, until it was annexed by Russia, which later became the Soviet Union. Today it is finally part of an independent country, Belarus, which means White Russia. This tug-of-war has been going on for centuries as the territory marks the division between the East and the West. As for religion, the West means Catholic and the East means Orthodox. If you travel to Eastern Belarus, you won’t find many, if any, Catholic churches. But as Grodno was recently part of Catholic Lithuania/Poland, many people are of that faith today. Also, many people have family and friends across the border, which is only about 15 km from my flat. (For a map go to “My Links”)

Second, do you notice that the women are carrying shopping bags? They are a necessity here as most stores do not provide them, or if they do, you must pay for them. Also, many people shop at huge, open-air markets and they definitely don’t have shopping carts!

Third, it is very common for women to walk arm-in-arm, like the women to my right in the photo. It’s a symbol of friendship and is also a great way to stay warm.

Fourth, see the woman on the left edge of the photo? Take a look at those boots and skirt, and this was a cold, windy day. I’ll do my best to post more examples of Belarusian fashion and footwear…they really are in a class of their own!

Fifth, in the background there is a man sitting on the bench, he is wearing a brown jacket and is just to the right of the lady in boots. I don’t know if you can see this but he is pouring himself a beer! This is also very common in Grodno and it is quite legal. In the evening you will find many groups of friends hanging out in the plazas and parks drinking beer and listening to music. The police don’t seem to care as long as they don’t see bottles of hard liquor. Also, as far as I know Belarus doesn’t have a drinking age. And if they have one, they sure don’t enforce it.

Finally, Belarus is an extremely clean country. Aside from a few stray beer bottles, I hardly ever see any trash or leaves on the streets or smell anything yucky. I noticed the cleanliness my first morning in Minsk and found the same thing here in Grodno. I was very impressed to see people sweeping and raking leaves at the crack of dawn! I later learned that the government hires people to keep things tidy. Another interesting thing, I often see people using old-fashioned brooms made from small branches, just like a witches broom. Sometimes I can hear the scraping noises outside my flat in the early morning. Maybe I can borrow a broom for Halloween? :-)

Note: If you want a better look at this photo, just double click it.

Name This Fruit

2007-10-24T14:32:00.001+03:00

Does anyone know the name of this fruit? I didn't until my landlord's father (Yevgeny) brought me a big bag of them. It is called a quince and is very common in jams and preserves. Yevgeny has a quince tree at his "dacha" and they are in season this month, hence the gift. A dacha is a small piece of land just outside of town where families have their own vegetable gardens. Most people also have a small cottage so they can spend the night, especially during planting and harvest times. The majority of my friends' families have a dacha, although many young people try to avoid digging in the dirt... much to their parents' dismay. There is a good chance I will visit my friend's dacha this weekend, as her parents are always looking for extra helpers :-) So I will post some dacha photos soon. About the jam, as most people have their own gardens many people still make their own preserves and can vegetables for the winter. My coworkers were quite surprised when I told them I had no clue how to make my own jam! Also, even though most people live in huge blocks of apartments, they still have root cellars in the basement where they can store veggies during the winter. If you want locally grown, natural, organic foods without paying Whole Foods' prices, then come to Belarus!

Back in Business

2007-10-23T20:15:00.000+03:00

I have great news! At this very moment I'm connected to the Internet with DSL!! No more snail-up for me! And the best thing is that I can start to use Skype!! Now I just need my printer to arrive (it's in a box somewhere between here and Texas) and I'll really be back in business.

What a Surprise!!!

2007-10-19T20:24:00.000+03:00

A few nights ago someone knocked on my door around 8pm, when I looked through the peep hole, I saw a man holding some flowers. "He must have the wrong apartment," I thought as I opened the door, "and how in the world will I explain this to him in Russian?" But when he said "Kelly" with his Russian accent and I saw my name on the form, I was in shock. "Who could've sent me these flowers?" And there was more, a box of Belarusian chocolate, which is quite good, and a bottle of champagne too!! I immediately opened the card and discovered that this awesome gift came all the way from Texas, from Néstor!! Too bad he wasn't here to enjoy the champagne with me, which I also opened immediately! It was Friday night you know... So all you men out there, just remember that you can send your lady flowers or chocolates or champagne anytime, for any reason, no matter how far apart or close the two of you are. I have proof right here...

The Heat Is On

2007-10-16T23:12:00.001+03:00

The Belarusian government finally decided to turn on our heating system! They fired up the furnaces on Sunday, which are located on the outskirts of town, but the heat didn’t reach my flat until late Monday night. The system uses pipes filled with hot water, so it took awhile for the warmth to make the journey into the center of town. No, I didn’t make a mistake in the first sentence . . . the government has 100% control of our heaters. In fact, if you get too hot the only option is to open your windows! The whole thing is a little hard to comprehend for this American-bred girl, but as the overnight lows have been approaching freezing, I could care less who controls my heat as long as they keep it cranked up. Right now it’s a balmy 21.8 C in my room and I’m no longer tethered to my space heaters, which were a major nuisance as if I plugged in any other appliance at the same time my power went out. “Balshoy spasiba” (big thanks) to the people stoking those fires!

The American Corner

2007-10-14T00:17:00.000+03:00

The American Corners project is a partnership between the U.S. Government and Belarusian libraries. The project was launched in 2001 by the U.S. Embassy to make information about the United States more readily accessible to Belarusian citizens. There are currently 12 corners in Belarus, including mine which is located in the Grodno Regional Scientific Library, just across the street from GSU university. Elize Ozheshko, a famous Polish writer, used to live in the house that was converted into this small library. GSU and the American Corner are located on Ozheshko Street, in her honor. An interesting fact, during WWII (or the Great Patriotic War around here) it was called Hitler Street. Every Sunday afternoon, I provide a free English Conversation Club to the local community. The club attracts a variety of people all of whom want to practice their English, learn more about the United States, and share their culture and life experiences. I really enjoy the people at the American Corner as we have developed an intercultural approach to our meetings, which means I am learning a lot of interesting things about Belarus too. Check out my photos under “American Corner.” I will add more as the year progresses.

Teachers' Day

2007-10-08T23:53:00.000+03:00

The first Friday of October is Teacher’s Day in Belarus, and many people celebrate all weekend. I started the festivities on Friday night by having a late dinner with my friend Света and two of her friends, who just happen to be teachers. As we nibbled on our food, we shared a bottle of champagne, and exchanged stories about our lives and cultures. How nice to be invited into someone’s home and to share such great conversation! Around midnight we took a taxi to a local disco, and I got my first taste of Belarusian nightlife. Unfortunately cameras were not allowed, and they even searched our purses. Once we were inside I figured out why…every hour or so there was a striptease act! Now that’s not something you see at the clubs in Texas. The bars stay open until 6am here and they don’t have last call, they serve drinks all night! The music was awesome so we danced into the wee hours, and needless to say I slept until almost 1pm the next day. I managed to make it to my Russian lesson around 4:00pm, and on the way home the skies darkened and it started to pour. I spent the rest of the night relaxing and enjoying the sound of the rain.

The sun was shining Sunday afternoon as I met another group of teachers at the local pizza place called Рзтро (Retro). The pizza is quite good, different, but good. Also, wine is served by the gram here. One way around this is to order a beer, which is what I did. One funny comment made during the meal was that my English was quite good! Everyone started laughing as I am a native speaker! We had been talking about the differences between British and American English, and how some Americans slur their words. Anyway, it was nice to hear that I’m a good articulator. Toward the end of our meal, when I was politely trying to eat my last slice (doggie bags are an American thing), I was informed that it was Zhana’s birthday and we were going to her place to celebrate. I was more than willing to go…one more invitation to visit someone’s home and on such a special day! When we got to her flat, there was another huge spread of food! When the Belarusians start to eat, they don’t mess around. Of course we took a short break of about 1 hour, then we sat down and started eating and drinking once again. The food was delicious, we even had Belarusian-style taco salad! It was close to the real deal except for the missing tortilla chips, which they don’t sell here. Despite being full, I somehow managed to taste everything. Did I mention the desserts? And have you ever heard of this phrase “Two teas to 222”? Like if you were ordering room service? Everyone thought this was the funniest thing. I had to add that I thought the Russian word for “here” (тут) pronounced “toot” was pretty funny too! This is what happens when you mix a bunch of language teachers and few bottles of wine. Anyway, by the time I got home I could barely move…but what a great experience! Teacher’s Day, or weekend, is one holiday I plan to bring home with me.

My Field Trip

2007-10-02T17:50:00.000+03:00

On Sunday, September 30, I went on my first field trip. We took a tour bus and visited three different places. The first was an Orthodox church that was celebrating its 600^th birthday. The crowd, which included some well-known priests from Poland and several camera crews, was so big that we never made it inside. But I was content to explore the fair-like exhibition surrounding the church and enjoy my first experience of traditional Belarusian culture. Next, we visited the monastery of Zhirovitchy, which was founded in the 15^th century, and is still one of the main centers of Orthodox education today. As it is still quite "orthodox," women are required to wear scarves over their hair and skirts, which must fall below the knees. Luckily, they had some extras we could borrow as you will see in the photos. Another highlight of this stop was the “holy water,” which was free for the taking provided you had your own bottle, or you could buy some for 50 cents. The monastery also has a small "gift shop" and several kiosks that sell religious icons and literature. I was impressed with the crowds of people waving their money and trying to push their way to the front of the lines. The Orthodox monks (and their wives as they must marry when they come of age) sure know how to make a buck, I mean ruble, or two! Our final stop of the day was a sacred spring-fed pool, only a few kilometers from the monastery, which is said “to cleanse you of your sins.” The pool is located inside a small wooden, roofless building, and once again there were crowds of people waiting to get inside. They took turns, men then women, as to get the full effect, it’s recommended that you bathe in the nude! (Hence, the lack of photos). Also, you’re supposed to submerge yourself three times while reciting a special prayer that is conveniently posted on the wall. It was getting late and rather chilly, and I had no intention of taking a bath, especially when I discovered that the water was quite pungent and cloudy to boot! Although in my best cross-cultural fashion, I did wash my hands and splash my face, you guessed it, three times each! There is one more thing, you have to let the water dry by itself, no towels allowed. What an adventure! See for yourself in "my photos" trip #1-3.

My First-Year Students

2007-10-02T02:22:00.000+03:00

I started teaching the week of September 17^th and so far the students have been great! They stand up when I walk into the room and call me Ms. Graham, imagine that. For the most part they are quite expressive and many of them are very fluent in British English, even the first-year students! It is common for students to study English before they come to university, and some of them attended special language schools. All of my classes so far have been called the “Practice of English,” which is a fancy way of saying English Conversation. The good thing is that I don’t have to teach grammar, grade papers, or give exams. The bad thing is that each week I have new students and new topics, basically I just take over other teachers' classes. So I never get to learn all of their names, or get to know them very well. Although some of them are anxious to hang out with me and I’ve already made a few friends. My plan is to take a photo of each class, look under "my photos."

My Host Institution

2007-09-16T02:01:00.000+03:00

My host institution is the Yanka Kupala State University of Grodno, also called Grodno State University. Yanka Kupala (1888–1942) was a Belarusian poet and writer. As the most famous Belarusian nationalist, he promoted the dying Belarusian language and attempted to shield it against further russification. If you want to read more about the university, look in “my links.” For more photos go to "my photos."

My First Week in Grodno

2007-09-16T01:51:00.000+03:00

On Monday, September 10th, I was informed that a new law had just been passed which requires the university to hire me as an employee. This silly thing is that even if I wanted to accept the money, I can’t because I’m already being paid with a U.S. grant! This was a big change from the previous Fellows, so no one knew what to expect as we started yet another stack of paperwork. Just imagine having to fill out a job application in Russian! It took a team of five people two days to prepare everything as they had to translate my entire resume and a short autobiography, which I had to write then and there. As they were translating, I had to obtain a copy of my university diploma, and no my transcripts would not do! I also had to give them a passport photo, which I luckily had with me. To make matters worse, they had to do the same thing for another visiting instructor… from China! The good news is that by Wednesday morning everything was taken care of and we could finally relax. With the paperwork and registration issues behind me, I spent the rest of the week observing classes, settling into my apartment, and exploring the city with the help of several students.

My Registration

2007-09-09T01:45:00.000+03:00

All foreigners must be registered with the local police, and this includes the address of your accommodations. When you are in Belarus on a tourist visa, your hotel does this for you. But as I’m here to work for 10 months, things were not so simple. After I met my landlord and agreed to take the flat, I wanted to move in right away. My registration at the hotel was set to expire at 8pm Friday, September 7. We hurried to the police station to transfer my paperwork to the apartment, but we ran into some problems. It seems as though we were missing a form or signature, I’m not really sure as the whole 30-minute debate was in Russian. After several phone calls and finally speaking to a supervisor, they gave me a temporary registration letter that allowed me to stay in the flat over the weekend, as long as we agreed to bring the missing information first thing on Monday. Talk about a cultural experience!

Мой Дом (My House)

2007-09-08T01:24:00.000+03:00

As soon as I walked in, I fell in love with the place! It was built in the 1950s and has thick plaster walls, wood floors, a big living room, bedroom, sun patio, bathroom, a separate room for the toilet, and the coziest little kitchen I’ve ever seen! But the very, very best thing is the tiny washing machine “Candy!” Good-bye nightmares of doing my laundry by hand for the next 10 months! Also, it’s only 2 short blocks from the university, which will be heavenly once the winter gets here. I couldn’t ask for anything more! (but if you'd like to see more photos, go to "my photos")

Welcome to Grodno!

2007-09-07T01:23:00.000+03:00

After spending the day exploring Minsk with another instructor from my host university, we made the 3.5 hour trip to Grodno. (If you need a map, look in "my links.") We left at 5:00pm so there was still plenty of daylight to illuminate the landscape, which looks very much like Nebraska but with more forests. I noticed right away that Belarusian drivers are a bit crazy! Our driver kept passing other cars and big trucks with only seconds to spare! Yikes! Rather than watching the road, I decided to chat with my colleague and look out the window. When we arrived in Grodno, we found Ludmila Sereda, “my keeper,” waiting for us at yet another hotel. We had a late dinner and a glass of wine to celebrate the beginning of my Fellowship. The next few days were filled with introductions, tours, and the most important task, finding my apartment.

My In-Country Orientation (Minsk)

2007-09-06T00:44:00.000+03:00

After sleeping for almost 12 hours, I had my official in-country orientation on Wednesday, September 5. The Embassy driver picked me up and in a few minutes we arrived at the Public Affairs Section (PAS) building. It was great to finally meet the people I had been working with over the summer. I even got to chat with the U.S. Ambassador to Belarus! I had lunch at the Embassy café and then had my “security briefing” that afternoon. After filling out some paperwork, I was left to use the internet at the Information Resource Center. I chose to walk back to the Hotel Minsk (it's the last photo below) to get a better look at the city. I spent the rest of my evening relaxing and watching Russian television. BTW, the decorations were for Minsk's 940th birthday celebration.

My Flight and Arrival

2007-09-05T00:41:00.000+03:00

I left San Antonio on Monday, September 3 at 11:55am and flew to Washington, DC, then Frankfurt, Germany, and finally to Minsk, Belarus. I arrived on Tuesday, September 4 at 2:00pm. Belarus is 8 hours ahead of Central Standard Time, which means my trip was 18 hours long! The airport in Minsk is quite small, with only 4 or 5 gates. I made it threw customs, immigration, and purchased my mandatory health insurance without a hitch ($85.00 for one year). To my surprise most of the people spoke English, although I did use my very first “spasiba” (thank you). Someone from the U.S. Embassy was there to greet me and all of my luggage, which also made it without any problems. So far so good!

My Last Few Days in the USA

2007-09-02T12:19:00.000+03:00

Thanks to my family and friends who sent me off with love, and one final Tex-Mex feast at La Fonda! An extra special thanks to my Mom and Dad who let me, and all my stuff, take over their home as I prepared for my trip. And thanks to Néstor Alexis, Néstor Rafael, and Javi who sent me off with a surprise gift that I was not allowed to open until I was flying over the Atlantic. I waited until I was well on my way to Frankfurt and was very happy to find a photo album inside! Tears came to my eyes as I knew how special these pictures would be during my trip.