A Different Tune

At 8:00 am sharp, my phone rang. It was someone from the U.S. Embassy in Minsk. It seems as though our "conference call" with the State Department had worked some magic during the night! This time they had changed their tune, they "could" send a car for me and my luggage, but the downside was I had to be ready to go at 4:00 pm the next day! At this point I was in no position to complain, so I accepted the offer.

Now the real fun began.

I had broken the bad news to my beloved supervisor, Ludmila, the night before. So she knew there was no way I could teach my classes. But in their place came a wave of paperwork from the university. Cbeta helped me as I limped from office to office filling out forms, explaining why I was “resigning my position,” checking to see if all my library books were turned in, and a bunch of other administrative stuff. Throughout all of this, I felt really self-conscious. After all the trouble everyone had gone through back in September to officially “hire me,” this was how I had to say good-bye? I wondered what everyone was thinking, did they believe me? What did they really think about the current situation that was brewing between our two nations?

A few of my fellow English teachers shared some tears, or a hug, but for the most part there was not much to say. What was done, was done, and there was nothing any of us could do to change things. Fortunately, there wasn’t much time for sadness. The clock was ticking . . . it was almost lunch time . . . and I hadn’t packed a thing!

Out of the Office

As soon as I got home, I started sending emails, making phone calls, and Skyping my family back home. The English Language Fellow Program was supposed to make my flight arrangements, but they were all in New York for the national TESOL conference. I tried my Regional English Language Officer (RELO), but she was also out of the office/country!

To top things off, the long walk had really agitated my ankle, which was swelling more and more by the minute. Luckily, I had a bag of frozen peas and used it for a make-shift ice pack.

Around 10:00pm, I Skyped my father back in Texas. It was then that I pulled out my Fellowship Manual and saw the contact information for someone at the U.S. Department of State. He called the number, and we had a mock conference call. The man we spoke to knew exactly who and where I was, and he promised to help.

At least the day ended on a positive note.

The Night from Hell

Somehow I managed to carry on with my life. I even met my friend Cbeta for our 7:30pm dance class. As we left the gym I noticed that I had 12 missed calls, most of which were from Peter Young in Minsk. I immediately called him back... but soon wished that I hadn't.

The latest and greatest was that "we had to be out of the country by EOB on Monday, April 7." If we didn't comply, the U.S. government would consider us "persona non grata."

When I told Cbeta, she started to cry. We walked a few blocks together, but had to part as she lived on the opposite side of town. So far I had managed to maintain my composure; but that was all about to change.

A few minutes after I said good-bye to Cbeta, my new contact at the U.S. Embassy called. She basically told me the same thing that Peter had, but of course, there was more. When I asked her if someone from the U.S. Embassy could pick me up and drive me to Minsk, she told me "not to count on it because they already had too much on their plates!" I was the only American in Grodno, but no one seemed to realize this. Her advice was that I consider crossing the border and going to the U.S. Embassy in Warsaw, Poland!! Yeah right, with all of my luggage, boxes, and no car. Our conversation ended with this: "to plan as if I had to leave the country tomorrow"... even if it meant I had to leave everything behind.

Right when I thought things couldn't get worse... they did.

As I approached the foot bridge to cross the Neyman River (the main bridge was closed due to construction), I tripped and fell. Thank God the steps had recently been removed and I fell onto soft dirt... but my ankle... there was a sharp stabbing pain. That was it, the flood gates had opened and I sat there sobbing on the ground. A lady stopped to help me, but my Russian wasn't flowing too well at the moment. All I could understand was "taxi" because it sounds the same in both languages. I somehow explained that I didn't have any money... I didn't even have a bus ticket.

I eventually got up and started to limp toward my flat, which was a good 20 minutes away. When I was half-way across the bridge, one of my friends (Alexander) from the American Corner called... his cousin had just passed away... he had finally lost his battle with brain cancer.

In Russian folklore, they say that bad luck comes in threes... and I was beginning to believe them.

The Day From Hell

Where shall I begin... Monday and Tuesday were somewhat normal despite the fact that the U.S. Embassy told me to stop meeting with my American Corner friends. It turns out that the KGB thing was true and if we continued to meet, even in a private home, they could get into serious trouble. And that was only the beginning...

Around 2:30pm on Wednesday, right in the middle of one of my classes, my phone rang. It was the U.S. Embassy so I stepped outside and took the call. The assistant secretary of defense had terminated all of the U.S. sponsored education programs in Belarus... and yes, that meant me. The decision had been made late the night before, and as Belaurs was 7 hours ahead of Washington DC, the Embassy had just received the news. Everyone was on stand-by as it was possible we would have to leave within one week!

Needless to say, I was in shock.

No More American Corner

On Sunday afternoon I made the 5-minute walk to the library for our weekly American Corner meeting. When I got there, two of my friends (Irina and Nastya) were standing outside. They immediately broke the bad news: "It wasn't convenient for us to meet at the library!" They further explained that the library was "under renovation" and that all of the books, videos, etc. that had been donated by the U.S. government were already gone! I had to see and hear it for myself, so I went inside alone.

They were right, all of the books, shelves, posters, etc. had been removed, and the door to the computer lab where we usually met was closed. When I asked what was going on, I heard what seemed to be the week's catch phrase: "We're sorry, but it isn't convenient for you to meet here anymore."

Then it hit me... where were the others? No one had called to tell me they were going to miss the meeting, which they usually did. One of the club members had told me that the KGB keeps a list of who attends and that our meetings were always monitored. Could they have been warned not to come?

All of a sudden I felt very, very alone...

More Bad News...

This afternoon Peter Young (one of the Fulbrighter's in Minsk) called to check in on me. Unfortunately, he had even more bad news. Several classes and lectures had been cancelled at the Belarusian State University with little or no explanation beyond the obviously state mandated "it isn't convenient for us." One of his colleagues cancelled a lunch appointment and the usual invitation to joint his students for a beer after class never came. The other Americans had similar stories to tell and even heard that the American Corners were in jeopardy.

So far nothing strange had happened in Grodno... but then again things always started in the capital city and spread from there. I turned to Lyudmila, my supervisor at Grodno State University, for some reassurance and she said everything was okay. She even called her contact at the U.S Embassy. Everyone was trying to maintain a state of grace despite the dark cloud that was heading our way.

U.S. Embassy Staff Leave Belarus

The U.S. Embassy staff in Minsk was reduced from 30 to 17 people today. This reduction included the Public Affairs Section (PAS), which oversees U.S. educational initiatives such as the English Language Fellow and Fulbright Programs.

At this time, we were told that our programs were not at risk and to continue business as usual. However, we were instructed to be extra aware of our surroundings and to avoid any meetings or gatherings that could be considered political.

We (the remaining 6 American educators) were all very concerned as our main contact at the U.S. Embassy was gone, and out of reach. Not to mention the recent violence at the demonstration in Minsk and the KGB's accusation of an American spy-ring at the U.S. Embassy. It was even worse for me as I was the sole American in Grodno! My friends invited me to come to Minsk for the weekend, but I didn't want to miss my American Corner meeting on Sunday. Besides, I had a ton of lesson plans to prepare for the following week.

Belarusian KGB Confirms Report About U.S. Spy Ring

The Belarusian KGB has confirmed a report aired on March 23 by Belarusian television that a U.S. spy ring was smashed in Belarus, Belapan reported on March 25. "Everything that was broadcast by First National Channel is true," KGB spokesman Valery Nadtachayeu told Belapan. The same day, KGB chief Yury Zhadobin said that no one was arrested in connection with the spy ring. "We are doing prevention work now. We are probing to what extent this or that article of law, this or that provision was violated," he said. "The fact that they are trying to dictate their rules to us on our own territory...is unacceptable," he added. According to the report, the U.S. diplomatic mission in Minsk organized a ring involving some 10 Belarusian citizens who passed to the United States information "for the use to the detriment of Belarus." The information was passed to "an FBI officer who worked at the U.S. Embassy," the report said. It also said that almost all members of the group were arrested on March 13 at a "secret address half a kilometer from the U.S. diplomatic mission." The report named U.S. Embassy officers Bernard Nixon and Curt Finley as being involved in the spy ring. Jonathan Moore, deputy chief of mission at the U.S. Embassy in Minsk, denied the report. "We have no spies operating in Belarus," Moore said.

Source:

http://www.rferl.org/newsline/2008/03/3-cee/cee-260308.asp

Over 100 Opposition Activists Arrested in Belarus Demonstration

MINSK, March 26 (RIA Novosti) - Police arrested over 100 opposition protesters during Tuesday's march in Belarus, in a crackdown set to further bolster the country's authoritarian image, an opposition leader said on Wednesday.

Alexander Milinkevich said opposition supporters had gathered in central Minsk for a peaceful protest, but were attacked by riot police.

"People were carrying flowers. The brutal suppression and beatings of demonstrators, journalists and even elderly people show that the authorities are afraid of us."

Source:

http://en.rian.ru/world/20080326/102256692.html

Police Crush Demonstration in Minsk

Belarusian police dressed in riot gear have broken up a demonstration in the capital, Minsk, by opponents of the president, Alexander Lukashenko. Witnesses said a few thousand protesters clashed with police after gathering in an attempt to mark 90th anniversary of the country's original founding as an independent state. Some of the demonstrators waved European Union or red and white flags from Belarus' pre-Soviet era. Dozens of activists and journalists are reported to have been arrested.

Source:

http://www.dw-world.de/dw/function/0,,12215_cid_3215833,00.html?maca=en-rss-en-all-1573-rdf

Belarus Says It Has Uncovered U.S. Spy Network

Belarus's intelligence agency says it has uncovered a network of U.S. spies working in the ex-Soviet republic.

The intelligence agency, known by its Soviet-era initials KGB, made the claim Tuesday. The country's state-run television Sunday accused the U.S. Embassy in Minsk of recruiting spies in Belarus.

The move is the latest sign of crumbling diplomatic relations between the two countries.

Source:

http://www.voanews.com/english/2008-03-25-voa29.cfm

U.S. Agrees to Cut Down Embassy Staff in Minsk to 17

MINSK. March 25 (Interfax) - Washington will cut down the staff of its embassy in Minsk, although it deems the Belarusian authorities' demand unfounded, U.S. Charge d'Affaires in Belarus Jonathan Moore said.

The United States sees this demand as unfounded and inconsistent from the point of view of diplomatic practice, he said. But the U.S. will meet the demand and the number of U.S. diplomats in Belarus will be reduced from 30 to 17 by the end of March 27, Moore said in a statement on Tuesday.

The statement also says that the embassy will manage to ensure contacts between Belarusian and American citizens, protect the interests of American citizens in Belarus, receive guests in the U.S., and inform the State Department about political and economic developments, the moment it is able to continue its work.

Source:

http://www.interfax.com/3/377560/news.aspx

U.S. Halts Visas for Belarus as Tit-for-Tat Goes Continues

MINSK (Reuters) - The United States has stopped reviewing Belarussian visa applications for now, its embassy in Minsk said on Wednesday, in a diplomatic spat that continues after Washington's envoy temporarily left the country.

"The U.S. government is at the moment looking at the recommendation of Belarus' Foreign Ministry for a reduction of staff at the U.S. embassy in Minsk," the embassy said in a statement.

Source:

http://www.reuters.com/article/domesticNews/idUSL1974534920080319

Belarus Seeks Staff Cuts in U.S. Eassy

MINSK (Reuters) - Belarus has asked the United States to cut staff at its embassy in Minsk, a week after Washington's envoy temporarily left the former-Soviet state which the U.S. and European Union says violates human rights.

A statement from the Foreign Ministry said a U.S. diplomat from the embassy had been called in and told of the "urgent recommendation from the Belarussian side that the U.S. embassy in Minsk reduce its number of personnel".

The ministry did not give a reason for this demand.

Source:

http://www.reuters.com/article/politicsNews/idUSL1777959820080317

U.S. Ambassador Temporarily Leaves Belarus

MINSK, March 12 (Itar-Tass) -- U.S. ambassador to Belarus Karen Stewart on Wednesday left Minsk and is on the way to Washington, the U.S. embassy's press service reported.
The embassy said Stewart's absence would be temporary, and she remained the ambassador to Belarus. The embassy added the United States policy regarding Belarus remained unchanged. The U.S. embassy supported democratic aspirations of the Belarusian people. The U.S. embassy stressed it is only after all political prisoners were unconditionally released that the United States would be ready to consider the subsequent steps toward improving bilateral relations.

Source:
http://www.itar-tass.com/eng/level2.html?NewsID=12470123&PageNum=0 .htm

The Beginning of the End

Today is October 2, 2008.... I have been back home for 6 months. My Fellowship was tragically cut short due to the deteriorating relationship between the United States and Belarus. It was a very traumatic experience, which is why it has taken me so long to write about it. To better explain what happened, I will post a series of news excerpts beginning with this one from April 7, 2008.

U.S. Ambassador to Belarus Expelled
Belarus has expelled the United States ambassador, after a row over travel restrictions imposed on its president by Washington.
The decision was also prompted by U.S. sanctions imposed on the country's state-controlled oil-processing and chemicals company, Belneftekhim.
The Belarusian Foreign Ministry announced at the same time that it was recalling its own ambassador to the U.S.
A White House spokesman described the expulsion as "deeply disappointing".
The United States - along with the European Union - has restricted the travel of authoritarian President Alexander Lukashenko and members of his inner circle, as well as imposing economic sanctions.
Both the U.S. and the E.U. have demanded that President Lukashenko frees political prisoners, and allows more democratic regimes, before normal relations can be restored.

Source:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/7283847.stm

Winter Retreat

Even though we’ve had a mild winter, it has been cold, dark, and dreary since the end of October. To help cheer us up, the Cultural Affairs Officer in Minsk organized a weekend retreat (2/15–2/17) for all the visiting Americans. We spent two nights at “Homestead Above the Neyman River,” a bed & breakfast located outside a small town called Berezovka. I made the 2-hour trip alone and waited for the rest of the group who were traveling from Minsk. They were caught in Friday afternoon traffic and then a nasty snow storm. When they finally arrived, we had a nice, Belarusian-style dinner and stayed up late talking and drinking wine.

On Saturday we visited the Neman glass factory in Berezovka. When Belarus was part of the U.S.S.R., this factory was the second largest in the country. I’ve seen a lot of Soviet-style factories, but this was my first experience seeing what was hidden inside. The factory is 125 years old, and once we entered its belly, it felt like we had traveled back in time. I was amazed that the majority of the products are still made by hand and that they let us get so close to the work stations. After our tour, we stopped at a small cottage to visit a local wood worker who, like most people in the area, used to work at the glass factory. I bought a small wooden vase made from local drift wood.

After a rest and another tasty meal, we drove to Lida, which is about 30 minutes from Berezovka. We tried to visit the Lida Fortress, but the gates were locked so we visited an Orthodox bazaar at the local community center. It was really crowded so we didn’t stay long, although I did manage to buy a scarf and listen as a few monks tested some new church bells. Next, we wandered around Lida and ended up at the Лидское (Lid-ska-ya) Brewery. I was happy as this beer is very popular in Grodno, and over the past few months I've come to know it well. Unfortunately, it was too late for a tour, but the bar was still open so we went inside to warm up. After a few beers, we walked back across town and returned to the bed & breakfast.

Later that evening, I had my first баня (banya/sauna) experience. It didn’t take long for someone to grab a bunch of wet birch leaves. The idea is to beat yourself, and each other, with the leaves to improve the circulation. It doesn’t hurt at all, but it sounds awful and leaves red patches all over your skin. I drank plenty of water and herbal tea, and when it got too hot I stepped outside to cool off. It was fun to watch the steam come off my body, but I don’t think it was very smart as I started to get dizzy from the extreme temperature change. I was saved by the dinner bell, and after a quick shower we all sat down for yet another big meal. Everyone was so relaxed from the sauna, and tired from the day's excursions, that right after dinner we called it a night.

When I woke up Sunday morning it was snowing, but after a few cups of coffee we decided to go for a walk. No one wanted to waste our last few hours trapped inside the house. We walked through a small neighborhood and then along the banks of the Neyman River. After our walk, we asked the owner, Valery, to play his гусли (goos-lee). This instrument is about 1,000 years old and sounds like a cross between a harp and a guitar. He was trained to play in St. Petersburg during Soviet times, and then traveled across Europe giving concerts. He saved his money, bought some land in his hometown, and eventually built the bed & breakfast with his wife Oksana.

After lunch, it was time for us to go. I took the bus back to Grodno and everyone else headed back to Minsk. The snow continued all afternoon and when I finally got home, everything was covered with a soft white blanket of snow. (Look under "Winter Retreat" for more photos.)

My Belarusian-style Birthday

I should start out by saying that I had a wonderful, cross-cultural birthday. Let me explain. In Belarus the birthday person is responsible for throwing his or her own party, which is the exact opposite of the American tradition. I’m just glad that I had almost 6 months to observe the customs, or I would've freaked out.

The festivities began at 1:00pm at the office. Zhanna met me at 12:30 to help me choose a cake, actually 2 cakes, one for the office and one for my dinner party. I had already purchased some caramel tea bags, plates, forks, and napkins, so I was ready to go. No one sang me happy birthday, but they did pinch my ears! The tradition is to pinch both ears one time for every year, ouch! My co-workers gave me a beautiful bouquet of flowers and then we sat down and enjoyed the cake.

After the office celebration, I went home to relax for a few hours. I was more than ready as I had been preparing for several days: cleaning the flat and then making several trips to the store. Remember that I do all my shopping on foot. I had to make one trip just to buy the wine and juice! To make my life easier I prepared the pasta sauce the night before, so all I had to do was boil the pasta, make a salad, and then slice some fruit, cheese, and bread.

My guests started to arrive at 7:00pm, and I promptly got my ears pinched 36 times! I only had one pinch at the office, so my ears were ready for the attack. This pinching is more for kids than grown-ups…they think the stimulation helps them grow…but it’s still a fun tradition. Everyone managed to squeeze into the living room around my small coffee table. I don’t have a dining room table and the kitchen is way too small for 9 people: me, Cbeta, Zhanna, Alena, Vasya, Irina, Olga, Anya, and Nadya. Everyone seemed to like my pasta dinner and we managed to finish 4 bottles of wine. And then there was the second cake…

I opened my gifts toward the end of the night, and everyone went home by 11:00pm. It was a school and work night after all. Looking back, it was a great experience, even all those trips to the store. I did miss blowing out my candles, but hey, there’s always next year. (Look under "My Birthday" for more photos.)

Mid-Year Conference: Kiev, Ukraine

My journey to Kiev began on January 30^th at 6:10am and included a 10-minute walk to the train station, a 6-hour train ride from Grodno to Minsk, a ride across Minsk on the metro, another 10-minute walk to the bus station, a 45-minute bus ride to the airport, a 1-hour plane ride from Minsk to Kiev, and finally a 20-minute taxi ride. Whew! It was almost 9:30pm when I arrived at the Hotel Ukraine and I was starving. Luckily, I spotted some colleagues and joined them for a late dinner.

The Mid-Year Conference began the next morning around 9:30, after everyone had made it past the U.S. Embassy security. We spent all day talking about how we could make our projects more sustainable, trouble-shooting common problems, and learning about other U.S.-sponsored programs. That evening the Public Affairs Officer and her husband had a reception for us at their flat. It was nice, but I didn’t get enough to eat so afterward a few of us went looking for a café. Kiev is a big, urban city and I assumed it would have a healthy nightlife, but every place we found had already closed at 10:30pm or was getting ready to close at 11:00pm! Once again luck was on my side as I had bought a few bananas and some water at the market earlier, or I would’ve gone to bed hungry.

On Friday morning the sun came out but we missed it as we were trapped inside the embassy all day. They even closed the thick curtains so we wouldn’t be distracted… no fair! At least the second day of the conference was more intriguing. We all had a chance to talk about our projects and several people gave formal presentations. It was really interesting as there were Fellows from the following countries: Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Moldova, and Ukraine. The U.S. Ambassador to Ukraine visited with us for about an hour in the afternoon, and then we wrapped things up.

Later that night a bunch of us went to see the ballet version of “Master and Margarita” by Mikhail Bulgakov. My friends in Grodno had told me about this book, which was banned during Soviet times, so I was very curious. To the best of my knowledge, it’s a satire based on the devil’s visit to the atheist USSR and is full of cultural innuendo. Not knowing the story didn’t bother me one bit as the costumes, music, and sets were incredible. It was definitely not your traditional ballet!

Saturday was our only free day and of course it was cold and cloudy. A few of us decided to hang out together and do some sightseeing. We visited the Lavra, which is a Ukrainian Orthodox monastery founded in 1051. Many people call it a “city in the city” because there are several streets circling the old churches and monastery buildings. The highlight was going underground to visit the two “cave churches.” The monks used to meditate in these caves and many of their mummified remains are now on display. The bodies are wrapped in fabric but they are in glass coffins, and each has an oil burning candle hanging over it. My friends saw a few finger bones poking out, but I hadn’t looked that closely.

After a late lunch we went to St. Sophia’s Cathedral, which is the oldest surviving church in Kiev (1037). Nowadays, the church is a museum so we were able to walk around and explore. The inside is gorgeous as there are original mosaics and frescos that date back to the 11^th century. And I instantly fell in love with the color palette and patterns: rich terra cotta with deep blue and green accents. It felt so warm and cozy, and the golden altars and mosaics really stood out. Too bad cameras were not allowed, although I did buy a guidebook for $3 so I could remember the color combinations.

After a quick shower, it was back to the opera house for “Madame Butterfly.” We couldn’t resist as the tickets were so affordable ($10-15 USD), and just being inside the opera house was a treat. I wasn’t as impressed with the opera, but it was still a nice, cultural experience.

On Sunday, February 3^rd, it was time for another travel day. I managed to ride on even more vehicles on my way back to Grodno, which means I set a new personal record! Check it out and remember that I had my luggage with me the entire time: I walked a few blocks from the Hotel Ukraine to the metro, I took the metro to the train station, then a bus to the airport, then flew back to Minsk. Then I took the bus from the airport to the bus station, walked 10 minutes to the metro station, took the metro across town to the train station, waited around for 2 hours, took the 6-hour train from Minsk to Grodno, then finished the night with a 10-minute walk to my flat. I didn’t even have the energy to go to the store for milk, but went right to sleep.

Overall the trip was enjoyable, although I never had any free, alone time to walk around and take pictures. Everyone kept saying “You must come back in the springtime, it is so beautiful!” I wouldn’t mind going back as Kiev is a wonderful, ancient city. There are so many places to visit and I just scratched the surface. (Go to "My Trip to Kiev" under My Photos.)

A Puerto Rican in Belarus - Part 2

Once we decided to stay in Grodno, the fun began! We started the week off by throwing a party for my friends from the American Corner. Néstor and I spent all day Sunday preparing and our guests arrived at 6pm. Everyone seemed to enjoy the pasta with tomato and meat sauce that we prepared, and of course we had plenty of champagne and sweets, so everyone was happy. It was really nice to discuss life from three different cultural perspectives: Belarusian, Puerto Rican, and American. Highlights of the night included Néstor and me each singing a solo with the videotape rolling! We had no choice as the girls sang a nice Russian song for us and then promptly told us it was our turn! We tried to get out of it, but they wouldn’t have it. In case you are wondering, I sang "Rudolf the Red Nosed Reindeer." And Néstor sang "He Renuciado a Ti" ("I Have Renounced You") by Jose Jose, to the delight of all the ladies! Around 10pm, everyone got bundled up to go outside. The snow was really coming down and we had a nice snowball fight: boys versus girls. Then Néstor and I made snow angels; this was another first for him. We were surprised that no one joined us, I guess it’s an American thing?

The rest of the week we spent visiting local cafes and restaurants, sightseeing, and hanging out with my friends. We slept in and stayed up late, after all we were on vacation! On Monday night, we visited a café called Несцерка (Nyé-stir-ka), which means little Néstor. Russian speakers love to use the diminutive forms of nouns, just like the Spanish ita and ito. How cool that Néstor’s name has a Russian equivalent. As far as we know it's a Greek name, so it must have migrated both East and West! Tuesday afternoon Néstor managed to get a photo of some local military men. We were walking down Lenin Street and we saw some young Belarusian soldiers. He asked Света to ask them for a photo, as fellow military men, and they agreed. BTW, all men, with very few exceptions, are required to serve for a short time (approximately 1 year). On Wednesday night, Néstor and I had a pizza at Ретро (Re-tro) and then went to my favorite disco and danced for several hours. It’s hard to find good house music in the States, so we soaked up all we could. On Thursday night we hung out with Irina, my Russian teacher, and visited two cafes. Our favorite place was Кронон (Kro-non). It only has 8 small tables, but it's cozy and the food is tasty, not to mention they have a nice selection of beer and wine. We fell in love with the sign hanging over the bar that says in Latin, “Truth in Wine.” On Friday night, we had a fabulous dinner with Света and her family, and Néstor really connected with her dad, Vladimir. Too bad his trip was so short, or the two of them would've gone ice fishing together. Maybe next time? On Saturday night, Néstor and I treated my friends to a night at the disco. We went the whole nine yards and reserved a table and ordered a nice dinner and drinks too. On Sunday evening my boss, Lyudmila, treated us to a home-cooked meal. It was fantastic! Monday night we had one last meal at Карчма (Karch-ma), and ate our favorite stuffed pork rolls with roasted potatoes, вкусный (f-koos-nih) yummy!

Time flew by and before we knew it Tuesday morning had arrived; time to head back to Minsk so Néstor could catch his flight back to Texas. Everyone was so warm and welcoming, so much so that Néstor wanted to say with me. He fell in love with all the Russian salads (I’m currently learning how to make them) and the Belarusian hospitality, or maybe it was that fur hat? ;-) If it wasn’t for his job with the U. S. Air Force, he’d still be here with me today…

(For more photos, go to "A Puerto Rican in Belarus - Part 2" under My Photos)

You Shall Not Pass!

When Néstor was planning his visit, I asked him to apply for a double-entry visa. After all, I have been here for 4 months and have yet to visit another country, which is a shame considering the close proximity of Poland and Lithuania. So he paid the extra money ($131 single entry; $232 double entry) and I got busy planning a short trip. After asking my friends, searching online, and visiting a local travel agency, I decided that the best option was to stay one night in Druskininkai, Lithuania, which is known for its "sanitoriums" (saunas/spas), and then travel to Vilnius so we could see the Old Town. I made the reservations and bought our bus tickets, so we were all set to go. That was until the U.S. Embassy told us the bad news: The checkpoint our bus was going to use was not an “international border crossing.” This means that only Belarusian and Lithuanian citizens can pass through. Funny that the travel agency didn’t warn me about this. What made matters worse is that the crossing we could use (M11) would turn the 1.5 hour trip from Grodno to Druskininkai into closer to 10 hours, not to mention that we would have to make a huge circle and backtrack, which neither of us wanted to do. (Double click on the photo above and you'll see what I mean.) Time for Plan B, which was to skip Druskininkai and just go to Vilnius for 2 days. This made more sense as it was a straight shot from the M11 crossing. Sounds easy enough… but when we went to the bus station we were told that the bus only departed on Tuesdays and Sundays, and we needed to go on Thursday! Another option was to go back to Minsk (3–4 hours on a marshrutka) and then take a 4-hour train to Vilnius, but we had just come from there and backtracking never sits well. Our last ditch effort was to rent a car and drive ourselves, but this idea was shot down when we were unable to find a car rental office in Grodno. Toward the end we even contemplated walking or skiing across the border!

We were both frustrated and more than a little disappointed at our failure. After investing so much time and energy it was hard to let it go, but we both felt better when we finally decided to hang out and relax in Grodno. I should add that we later found out that we could’ve taken a marshrutka to Vilnius, instead of the bus, and they depart for Vilnius everyday! Then again, who knows which border crossing they use. Like Néstor and I said, "It was not meant to be." Maybe there was a reason we were not supposed to go on this trip?

More Stamps

On Saturday morning we met Viktar, my landlord, so he could “register” Néstor to the flat. The Belarusian government keeps track of its citizens and visitors, so we had to visit the Immigration and Passport Control Office, present the proper documents, and pay a small fee ($10 USD). When you stay at a hotel the front desk registers you, which means they have to keep your passport for a few hours, or sometimes overnight. But when you stay in a private residence the owner has to take care of the paperwork. Unlike my registration experience back in September, Néstor’s was uneventful, which was a good thing. The only excitement came at the last minute when the lady was about to reach for her stamp, but instead got up and started digging through a filing cabinet in the corner of the office. All we could do was stand there, watch, and hold our breaths. We had no idea what she was looking for, but whatever it was she didn’t find it, so she finally came back to her desk. Then we heard the magical sound of the stamps being made: Success was ours!

Our happiness made the 20-minute walk across town more enjoyable. The sun was shining, but it was still very cold and windy. At midnight it had been –10° Celsius (14° F) and a friend told us the overnight low was –15° C (5° F); the coldest night of winter so far.

Sorry I don’t have more photos for this entry, but it’s not very smart to take out your camera in or around government buildings in Belarus, unless you feel like practicing your Russian with a police officer. Did I tell you that they still have the KGB (КГБ) here? Belarus is unique in that respect, as all the other ex-Soviet countries did away with it, or at least changed the name of the organization. I walk past their local headquarters all the time, which is directly across from the police station, or militia (Милиция). I figure that if they’re watching me, I might as well make their job a little easier. Maybe one day I’ll figure out how to get a photo of the building, sign and all, without getting into trouble. But seeing as though they have surveillance cameras, it will probably never happen. You’ll just have to take my word for it, or come check it out yourself.

A Puerto Rican in Belarus - Part 1

On January 2, I traveled to Minsk via “marshrutka” (12 passenger van) as Néstor was arriving the next afternoon. I spent the night with my friend Elise and was very happy when she offered to drive me to the airport, which is located about 45 minutes from the city. We arrived at the gate just in time to see him walk through customs. What a great feeling to finally hug and kiss each other again; neither of us could stop smiling! Like me, all his flights had been on time and all his luggage made it through with no problems. Now it was time for his 2-week adventure to begin.

We spent the night at the Hotel Planeta and managed to squeeze in a few hours of sightseeing the next day. We didn’t have time to do much as we had to catch the 4:22pm train to Grodno, although I did finish my last minute holiday shopping at “Univermag” (the state owned department store). The highlight of the day was watching a fire truck empty its tank to create an ice skating rink around the New Year’s Tree in October Square. It was so cold that the water froze instantly and people began to play and slide on the ice, even without their skates. Now that was definitely something new for my Puerto Rican!

Néstor finally got some sleep during the 6-hour train ride to Grodno. And we had a blast playing with our camera. We had heard that you aren’t supposed to take photos of the trains (a throw back to Soviet times?), so we kept sneaking our camera out when the cabin attendant wasn’t looking or when he went to another car. The joke will be on us if we ever find out that it’s actually okay to take pictures, but we had some good laughs nevertheless. The train pulled into Grodno at 10:00pm and we dragged our luggage a few blocks to my flat. It felt great to finally be free of it. Next, I took Néstor to the 24-hour shop on Sovietskaya Street to buy some fresh milk and bread. Then it was back home to prepare his first meal, which like mine, consisted of пелъмени (meat filled dumplings) and a local beer. The only difference was that we had soy sauce, which is a very tasty way to spice up your “pil-main-ee.” So went Néstor’s first 36-hours in Belarus and our first night together in Grodno, my home away from home. (Check out " A Puerto Rican in Belarus: Part 1" under My Photos.)

C Нобым Годом! Happy New Year!

After spending a quiet Christmas so far from home, I was ready to celebrate the New Year, which is the biggest holiday in Belarus. I spent the night with my friend Сбета and her family including her mom, dad, sister, grandma, and cousin. The evening began with a huge Belarusian-style feast of chicken, pork, sausages, boiled potatoes, several special holiday salads, caviar, tomato slices, cheese, pickled cucumbers and carrots, bread, fresh fruit, juices, champagne, amaretto, red wine, and last but not least, a huge bottle of vodka. We started our meal around 8:00 pm and the drinks began to flow. I was happy to participate in the series of toasts that always accompany a gathering of friends and family, no matter how big or small. This tradition is one of my favorite parts of Belarusian culture as the toasts are often very meaningful to those involved. Rather than gulping down your drinks in silence, everyone comes together to enjoy and commemorate the moment. Although you can get yourself into trouble as many people insist that you finish all of your drink each time. My advice is to make sure you have a small glass!

It was New Year’s Eve and I was in the mood to party, so by golly I finished each of my shots of vodka and washed them down with a закуска (za-kooz-ka, snack). In this case it was a slice of pickle, Russian style! After an hour or two I realized that the huge table of food served a second purpose, to help counteract all the vodka that we, or at least Сбета’s dad and I, were drinking. It didn’t take long for us to team up, and I later learned that he was very pleased to have a drinking buddy for the night. We carried on like this until 11:00 pm at which time everyone, except Сбета’s mom, stood up and toasted Happy New Year to Moscow! What an experience for a girl whose father visited the U.S.S.R. during the Cold War as a U.S. Air Force officer. Who would ever have guessed that one day I would share a special holiday meal with a man who once served in the Soviet military!

When the clock finally struck midnight in Belarus, we had yet another toast and enjoyed the national anthem as it played on the television. Next, everyone sat down to listen to President Lukashenka’s New Year’s Greetings. As usual, I was happy to understand a handful of words, but you can visit the Embassy of Belarus (http://www.belarusembassy.org/) for a full English translation. After the speech, we continued to watch the special New Year’s Eve programs, which were very similar to those in the United States. One big difference, besides the presidential address, was that no one kissed me at midnight. As my boyfriend was back home in Texas, I didn’t mind the lack of affection.

Not long after midnight, we lit some sparkles and enjoyed the barrage of fireworks that were exploding all around the flat and throughout the city. It was somewhere around the sparkles that I began to lose track of time… Сбета invited me to go with her to the center to enjoy the huge party and concert, but I was in no condition to travel. She left with her cousin and I somehow managed to help clear the table and then promptly fell asleep on the living room couch. I vaguely remember seeing Father Frost place gifts under the New Year’s tree, which was right next to my bed.

The next thing I knew it was 2:00 pm on New Year’s Day, my head was killing me, and someone was offering me a cup of champagne. You know the saying, “A hair of the dog that bit you.” The worst part was that Сбета’s dad had woken up at 9:00 am to play football (aka soccer) with his friends! A piece of advice to my fellow Americans: When it comes to drinking vodka, never ever try to keep up with a Russian or a Belarusian! Better yet, make it anyone from any country that has ever had anything to do with Russia. It’s in their blood I tell you! It’s in their blood!